2009 MASTERS OF FASHION

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F-1

NICOLE FARHI

She is so well established as a designer who designs sympathetically for like-minded women that she needs little explanation. Born in Nice and trained in fashion design, she moved to London in the early 1970's to work with Stephen Marks on the French Connection brand. She launched her own label with Marks in 1982 and added a very successful mens-wear collection in 1989. Two diffusion ranges called Farhi now exist for both men and womens-wear. Her flagship store in Bond Street, London houses her collections, her home-wares, swimwear and accessories plus her popular eponymous restaurant. There is an almost identical store just off Madison Avenue in New York. London. She has won many awards for both her mens and womens-wear collections; sculpts for a little more than relaxation and is married to the playwright David Hare.

SOPHIE ALBOU

Fashion scholar Sophie Albou first got her stylish feet wet at France's Fashion Institute. She followed her graduation with an appointment at Azzedine Alaia and then became a stylist for Le Garage. In 1995 Albou launched her first menswear collection, under the name "Paul and Joe" - a shout out to her two young sons. Two years later the designer released a womenswear line under the same moniker, to critical acclaim.

F-2

BEN DE LISI

Ben de Lisi

American born de Lisi has built a reputation for designing clothes with a subtle, flattering glamour with collections that focus on eveningwear. From his Elizabeth Street shop his flourishing business in bridal dresses both couture and ready-to-wear has been expanded. His BDL evening range for Debenhams has been a mass-market success story while his interiors for a large property company in the UK have added another string to his bow. He also designs a range of bathrooms for Abacus and has plans to extend into other areas of lifestyle products. De Lisi has just started filming the third series of the television programme Project Catwalk where his role of feisty mentor to competitors has been impressive.

SWAROVSKI

Nathalie Colin Roblique

Nathalie Colin Roblique, Swarovski's Creative Director said, "A study in asymmetry, a search for slightly savage effects, and a desire for irregularity that satisfies a need for authenticity and truth... I wanted to create versatile and nomadic jewellery that never stops moving. "Alive and sensual," she added, "these jewels can be rolled up or draped. Their fringes echo human gestures and move with the body. Some jewels appear to be abstract sculptures - somewhere between jewellery and art objects - but they are neither narrative nor realistic." The slideshow gives you a glimpse of this fantastic show. To see details of the collection, immerse yourself into the Soul of Time and enjoy the ultimate experience.

F-3

Screener

AMANDA WAKELEY

She is a mirror of the women she aims to dress with an innate understanding of the confident, glamorous clothes they need. As her labels impressive A list clientele proves - Scarlett Johansson, Mischa Barton and Sarah Michelle Gellar are amongst her many fans. She has won the British Fashion Award for Glamour three times in the past. With new backers she has moved her production to China and India.

 

BARBARA BUI

This high-end Parisian label is a study in extremes; both structural and flowy, modestly romantic and aggressively sensual. Barbara Bui has been successful in establishing and expanding the brand over two decades, branching off with two diffusion lines, accessories, fragrances, and even a café in Paris. Though she's long been known for her trousers' flattering fit, as of late Bui's developed a reputation for her Italian-made accessories and shoes. Born in Paris to a Vietnamese father and a French mother, Bui grew up fascinated by language and studied literature at the prestigious Sorbonne. After graduating, she opened a multi-brand boutique, Kabuki, where she slowly introduced her namesake label, eventually opening an eponymous shop in 1988. Though she's launched an accessory line and two diffusion labels, Initials Barbara Bui and Bui, she still works personally with her design team on every piece.

F-4

Screener

ELIE SAAB

In 1982, Saab launched his own Beirut-based fashion label when he was just 18 years old. His main workshop is in Lebanon, a country to which he remains deeply attached. He also has workshops in Milan and Paris. Saab is self-trained. He started sewing as a child and knew that one day he would make a living out of it. In 1981 he moved to Paris to study fashion, but ended up returning and opening his workshop in 1982. In 1997 Saab was the first non-Italian designer to become a member of the Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda, and in 1997, showed his first collection outside Lebanon in Rome. In 1998, he started ready-to-wear in Milan, and in the same year, he held a fashion show in Monaco which was attended by Princess Stephanie of Monaco. He gained notoriety after he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner, Halle Berry, in 2002. In May 2003, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture invited him to become a member, and he showed his first haute couture collection in Paris in July 2003.

CAROLINE CHARLES

Caroline Charles

London can't boast many designers who began their careers in the sixties and are still creating with a great sense of style and a passion for their craft. She has shops strategically placed throughout the UK; key international stockists and licensees in Japan. She celebrated the 40th year of her business with a party in 2002 at the V & A and was also awarded an OBE for services to the British fashion industry.

F-5

 

PPQ

Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker

PPQ designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker are an energetic double act who began their label in 1999. They design a main line women's and men's collection and a highly popular jeans collection. With investment from Icelandic retail giant Bugar they expanded the company and opened their first shop in Conduit Street during LFW last September. They also have a vibrant record label called 1234. Vibrant colour and print are important components of their collections, which have become more luxurious in past seasons. Their jewel colour-block cocktail dresses have become something of a cult this year joining their ubiquitous perfect smock. Their PPQ skinny jeans are great favourites with the rock fraternity. Sienna Miller, Kiera Knightly, Lily Allen, Sophia Coppola, Kirsten Dunst and Amy Winehouse are all fans. Accessories - bags, belts and shoes - and a semi-precious jewellery range complete their collections.

COLLETTE DINNIGAN

Collette Dinnigan

Collette Dinnigan is no overnight success. In her late teens, Collette attended Wellington Polytechnic and on graduation she moved to Australia to began her career in fashion, working for the Costume Department of the Australian Broadcasting Commission in Sydney. Attention to detail and a historical perspective on both fabrication and design were the result. Stepping out on her own in 1990, the Collette Dinnigan label was born. Collette's distinctive style meant her in-demand designs were snapped up by hip boutiques and department stores in Australia and New Zealand. Barney's New York, Neiman Marcus, Harvey Nichols and Joyce in Hong Kong were soon to follow and an international presence was established.

F-6

YUKI TORII

As a child, Yuki Torii had ambitions of becoming a painter. Pattern and color had always excited her, and when she became a professional designer in the early 1960s, her approach always began with the textile or color, with a defined choice of palette that ranged from pastels to brights. These bold, vivid color have been an enduring and recognizable quality in Torii's work. One distinctive collection was autumn/winter 1986, which mixed rigorously colored tartans and checks for menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear. The collection consisted of lively, wearable separates; oversize tartan shirts, tartan trousers, and comfortable cardigans for men; long tartan flounced skirts for women, teamed with long, skinny rib jumpers or oversized Argyle patterned sweaters; tartan pinafore dresses for girls and a weatherbeaten, mountaineering look for boys, layering tartan overshirts over tartan Levi-style jackets.

UNCONDITIONAL

PHILIP STEPHENS

Philip Stephens had a varied career before he landed back on Planet Fashion working in interior design, event management and club promotion. He started the fashion/lifestyle consultancy Concrete PR and Marketing in 1996 and the Concrete Shop followed 4 years later. The UNCONDITIONAL collection was initially designed exclusively for the shop but Louis Boston became his first wholesale customer and encouraged him to expand the range. There are now over 90 international stockists in 18 countries. They are a winning combination of the laidback and the edgy. . The collections have a diverse range of celebrity customers which include Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Jude Law, Adrian Brody, to David Bowie and Depeche Mode, Kasabian and Mika. Cameron Diaz, Tori Amos, Madonna, Kelis, Skin, Jade Jagger, Amy Winehouse, and Sheryl Crow are female fans.

F-7

 

 

MAHLIA KENT

Eve Corrigan

Mahlia Kent was Coco Chanel's fabric creator. Today, the company consists of a creative team coming from 15 different nationalities, under the direction of ex-fashion model - EVE CORRIGAN (French - American Mahlia Kent has over 50 years of long term relations with artists, designers and fashion stylists of the world and the great couture houses of CHANEL, DIOR, GUCCI, PRADA, KENZO, YSL, RALPH LAUREN, CK, DKNY, VERSACE, VALENTINO, etc.

BORA AKSU

Turkish born Aksu graduated from Central St Martins MA in 2002 starting his own label immediately. He has previously been awarded New Generation sponsorship four times. In the past he has worked with Converse incorporating aspects of the popular sneakers into his clothes. He has collaborated with ballet choreographer Cathy Marston designing costumes for her TCMP tour. He also designs an exclusive diffusion line for the retail group Koton called 'Bora Aksu for Koton'.

F-8

 

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARME

Graduate of the Higher School of the applied arts, Christophe carries out a successful initiatory course at J.C. de CASTELBAJAC, Dice KAYEK and Stella CADENTE. In 1998, Christophe signs his first collection which meets with an immediate success. He then launches his line under his own name one year later. The work of Christophe is at crossroads between modern and tradition. Conservative in his creative process and in the refinement of the details, his models are versatile and successfully mix Glam' Rock and couture. An ultra feminine style which has already caught the eye of many celebrities from Paris to Los Angeles as well as Cannes.

ELEY KISHIMOTO

Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto

Design duo Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto have established an international reputation as innovative and influential textile and fashion designers since starting their business in 1992. They are London's most versatile polymaths - always pushing the boundaries of print and design. They have just joined forces with Mitsui and MACH 55 in Japan to launch a new global license business to make Eley Kishimoto a true lifestyle brand. The results of this joint venture was evident at their show. They continue to work with Ratti, World Textiles and Sanei. Their new joint venture for global licensing has opened up endless possibilities. They are also working on a new hotel concept with Mark Newson.

 

F-9

 

PAUL COSTELLOE

Paul Costelloe

The Dublin-born designer continues to expand his successful business. One of the most established names in British fashion he has a loyal following for his wearable designs in his signature linens, tweeds and printed silks. This past year he has been expanding his UK based shops and European concessions. His collections are an essentially classic and fresh mix of tailoring, knitwear and dresses with three main aspects each season. His main line 'Collection' focuses on occasion dressing for day and evening using fine Italian fabrics. 'City' is a capsule range of strong tailored suiting at keen price points, perfect for the working woman. 'Dressage' is the leisure section of the collection; casual cords, denims mixed with butter soft nappa jackets, fine knits and jersey pieces for relaxed but stylish weekends.

ORSALIA PARTHENI

Dimitris Parthenis opened his first store in Athens in 1970 and his second in Mykonos in 1978 which launched his label internationally with flagship stores in Brussels and Los Angeles. Daughter Orsalia continues her father's tradition of "chic sportif".

 

F-10

 

YIORGOS ELEFTHERIADIS

One of Greece's leading designers with followings in Paris and London, each of Eleftheriadis' collections is characterised by an experimentation in texture, shape and form.

INES DE LA FRESSANGE

"I never believed in the goddess thing,"says Ines de la Fressange, about her emergence as one of France's legendary beauties. Tall, exquisite, with a perilously delicate frame, the former Chanel supermodel is now a designer and businesswoman, still appearing frequently on television and in magazines. In 1989, at the height of her modeling career, she was chosen as Marianne, the symbol of the French republic, a role in which Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve preceded her."Actresses and models often can't have a balanced emotional life," she says.

 

F-11

 

 

KEITA MARUYAMA

Short and sweet, Keita Maruyama's collection was poetry in motion set to fine works of classical music. In perfect harmony with the trend for next fall/winter, he worked his magic with ruffles. Maruyama opened his show with a beautiful, very ladylike trench coat in cream. The coat has ruffles in the back and is to be worn with matching boots. He worked wonders with his knitwear and fringes. A long knit coat complete with fringes will give a woman the movement in time and in space that she will need during her cold afternoons of shopping. The cross-your-heart knit fringed top in grey and matching fringed skirt will certainly guarantee the right kind of attention to she who wears it.

DEUX HOMMES

Dimitris Alexakis and Gregory Triantafylou burst into the fashion scene as DEX HOMMES back in 1992. Over the ensuing years, their atelier has become a hothouse of creativity for unique couture pieces made-to-order.

 

F-12

 

KATHY HAENDELS

Yiannis Tongos

Haendel's haute couture and designs grace the hips of the well-heeled Athenians and have found their way to the Middle East and Abroad.

MASSARO

Raymond Massaro has had his hands on the most beautiful and famous feet in the world. And from the looks of the new thigh-high velvet boots he's crafting for Chanel, he's had his hands on a lot more than feet. He will not comment, though, beyond a sly smile and bemused twinkle in his eye. Discretion is of course de rigueur for those who cater to haute couture and the world's glitterati. Massaro will, however, admit that during his 56-year career, he has handcrafted shoes for the likes of Marlene Dietrich, the Duchess of Windsor, Claudia Schiffer, Morocco's King Hassan and fashion houses from Vionnet to Alaïa. One can only imagine what other famous feet have climbed the stairs to this dusty second-floor atelier on the rue de la Paix.

F-13

DAPHNE VALENTE

After attending FIT in New York then St Martins in London [classmates with John Galliano], Valente started her Fashion career in 1985 and managed to introduce her signature geometrically formed pleated garments as far afield as Singapore, Melbourne , Toronto and Mexico!

TBA

 

 

 

 

 

Kostas Metaxas CEO www.exero.com metaxas@netspace.net.au