Ultimate Cars, Watches & Hi Fi S04 ep7 : Antoine Martin Watches

Interview with name Martin Braun

The German watchmaker Martin Braun, who has already established a name for himself amongst watch connoisseurs as founder of the brand Martin Braun, in 2009 founded the company MHO AG (Manufacture Horlogère Obwalden) with the stated goal of the realisation of his own proprietary movement, equipped with his self-developed Swiss lever escapement. After nearly two years of intensive work, since 2011 the first 100% self-developed Antoine Martin manufactory movement is ready: a fascinating movement with manual winding, integrated perpetual calendar, a big date display and a 6-day power reserve.

 

10:13 - 10:24

Antoine Martin first of all is a name combing two names one of
the investor is
Antoine. I am Martin Brown and I'm the master watchmaker of the
brand.

10:30 - 11:06

I was born in Calsue .When I was a young boy I was very talented
in doing electronic equipment. I was making flashing lights,
stroboscopes and that stuff and then I was looking for a job to
combine both and at that time at the early eighties you know there
was a quartz boom in the industry. We had completely electronical
basic training plus mechanical training and that's the reason I
started electrical watch making. It was in Fortime that eldest
watch making school in the world.

 

Jewellery Theatre Carravaggio


11:09 - 11:18

In the beginning of the 90's there was again a mechanical boom so
they reduced the training in Quartz Movements and spent more
energy in mechanical stuff.

11:25 - 11:38

My father was a watch case manufacturer so I grew up in the
watch industry since I was a young boy so it was relative, logical
more or less that I will do something with watches, sooner or
later.

 

Jewellery Theatre Carravaggio

11:45 - 12:04

When I finish studies my father had some trouble in the business
and needed help and then I went to his factory and helped him. So
the beginning of the 90's I said okay I make my master training as
a watch maker and that was the initial spark for going back
completely to mechanical watches

12:11- 12:50

At that time it was nearly impossible to find mechanical
movements on the market and someday I had the idea to go to
stock market, to antique markets and we bought antique
movements and then I restored these antique movements and then
we made a case, a new case, a wrist case for this movements so we
made unique pieces and we had a very, very good success with
these and for me it was the perfect training because I became
familiar with all the constructions was done in the past in the
watch industry.

 

Jewellery Theatre Elements

12: 56 - 13:40

In the middle of the 90's, I had to find a way for my future because
my father was approaching the retirement age but if he retired who
make my cases? So I said okay I had to find a way for my own
future and mid of the 90's I had an idea to make a wrist watch and
I would be the first one to do that to show you the sunrise and
sunset times in a completely mechanical way. So I sit down, made
calculations, designs and so on and in the year 2000 I introduced
my brand Martin Brown to the watch world. Then I developed
more and more complications and I became very, very famous in
doing astronomical complications.
13:37- 14:14

Mid of 2006, the Franck Mueller watch time group was
approaching me and said we become partners would you join the
group and I said yes that is a very good opportunity because I have
more production capacities, I have distribution network; that's a
very good solution at the end the work together was not really
harmonic and not very pleasant so I left in 2009.

 

Jewellery Theatre Fairytales

14:22- 15:13

I have in mind to make the movement manufactory. I wanted to
create my own movement and the plans existed already in my
mind so I established the MHO. It's the
manufactory 14:33 14:34 in Switzerland and we produces the
movement. Then it was logical to make again a watch print so
because our movement was sensational we have the biggest
balance wheel in the watch industry. I developed my own
statement, I have patent on an aerodynamic amplitude
stabilization system and at the end it was a beautiful movement
with a perpetual calendar, 6 days power reserve and then we said
okay, let's do a brand again and then I found a partner who helped
me to finance it and his name was Antoine other is Antoine and
then we established a company 'Antoine Mater'.

15:19 - 16: 42

When the escapement was invented 1840 for Mr. Leshot, he had
ruby pallets and steel escapement wheel, that needs oil so and that
oil stay steady on the pallets. You have to give them a special
geometry and this geometry kills activity and since 160, 170 years
the industry have the same angel and the same system as Mr.
Leshot invented in that time. So now a days we can make the parts
of silicium and silicium has less friction in the factor of 3.5
comparing to steel with ruby and oil so you need no oil. So if you
do not need the oil we can give the whole system a completely
new geometry and that's what I calculated and it took me a long
time. We give the pallets and the escapement is a completely new
shape and we were able to increase affectivity by 15 -17 %. So
that means the main spring can be more thinner, we can have a
longer power reserve and from the beginning means fully winded
or less winded we have absolutely perfect running results.

16: 49 - 17:23

The weaker the mainspring is the better is the tork Corfu. If you
have a tork Corfu from a wall clock there's a very strong
mainspring. You have to begin very, very high Tork and then it
down rapidly until the end. If you have very weak mainspring that
you have a small tip at the beginning and then it's linear nearly
until the end that means we have from the beginning down to the
end means when the power reserve ends we have a very stable
amplitude and that helps to state the accuracy of the movement.

17:31-18: 17

 

We have four tiny arms on the balance wheel on the outside and if
the balance is swinging there is always a small air cushion in front
of these arms, okay and I have another arm approaching these tiny
arms and then the air cushion breaks a little bit the speed of the
balance so at the beginning normally we have 330 degrees
amplitude, we reduce it down to 300 and after a while because the
system is connected to the power reserve indicator, the arm go
away and then the balance can swing more freely. That means
from the beginning down to the end we can keep the amplitude
stable by 300 degrees and therefore we have an unbelievable
accurate working movement
18: 25 – 18: 56

I made the designs for Martin Brown in the past so if I start to
make the designs again for Antoine Nota sooner or later it will
look like a Martin Brown and I want to avoid that and therefore we
hired a very famous design team who is responsible now for the
design but that means a design can be created only by sitting
together, talking, taking out the DNA of the movement to get the
spirit, the ideas behind and then transform it into reality.

19:05 - 19: 27

If you see the possibilities and you go in and say here you can
make it more thin and fragile and more parts in more movable,
more technique that is adrenalin in the body and that is a kind of
drug, you know and you start dreaming and become exploding and
more ideas and that's fantastic, that's my skill.

19: 34 - 20:05

A watchmaker; what we doing it's a kind of adult children. In my
mind I play with the compliments and sometimes you're stuck in a
problem. As soon as you recognize a problems you can try to find
a solution so a regular Swiss level escapement works so why
should we change it? But you know, it was not perfect so there are
some problems or room for improvement and I opened the door
and the result is perfect.

20:10 - 20:17

I was very proud because I was the only one of many be a couple
handful people in the world who developed their own escapement.

 

 

 

OFFICIAL WEBSITE: Antoine Martin