The Fashion Folk S01 ep8 : Stefano Citron, Stephen Vernon & Greg Myler,Mila Schon Fashion, [Milian]
Interview with Stefano Citron, Stephen Vernon & Greg Myler
You can dress in London for a couple of hundred quid and look amazing and with your last 50 quid buy yourself a drink. In Italy, there are two kind of looks. There is a very kinda classic Max Mara and then you have Donatella Versace's with the blonde hair and all the business.
KM – Why is Mila Schon a German name with two Italians and two English
guys in it?
Well bascially, Mrs. Schon is Austrian.
KM – Oh O.K. so there really is a Schon?
OH yes, Mrs. Schon still works here.
KM – Oh I thought it was just a name.
No she is still part of the team and she is very involved when we do the
collections and at every stage. During the season she comes and works with
KM – So how old is Milan Schon itself, the company.
I think the company started in the late 60's I think.
KM – And this is here in Italy in Milano
KM – What is a Viennese lady coming to Milano to do fashion for the Italians
and the rest of the world?
I've no idea.
KM – You never asked her that. You never said Mrs. Schon "Warum??"
[German for "Why?"]
She used to actually dress really important people in the 60's and 70's. She
used to dress Jackie Onassis .
KM – This is here in Milan.
I'm here for five years, Federico 10 years and Steve is three years.
KM – What exactly do you individually do? You don't sit back and say I'll make
the belt; I'll make the knickers; and I'll make....
No, no, it is really strange, because what we actually do, even when people
ask us what do we do, it really is a mix. We've all got very different tastes,
obviously we have fights and arguments, and we don't agree always.
KM – You're kidding? Four creative people and you fight!
And you know we have drama and there was a bit of drama on today...
KM – So when you have dramas do you guys gang up or is it the English
against the Italians?
KM – What is different about the English mentality when it comes to Italian
Let's say that with regards to style perhaps we Italians are more creative in the
smaller things like, with the sense of aesthetics that is with many accessories
and many other things. Maybe we overdo it a little. Instead these people who
are English maybe are more minimalists and this is the difference.
KM – Really. Don't say that about Mc Queen and Galliano - they'll fall over.
Yes, but it is true in a way.
KM – So you guys are more the restraint and Federico is more the fantasy. Is
this how it works?
Yeah it is in a way.
KM – Are you both from St. Martins or Kings College?
I am front Saint Martins, and
I am from Royal College.
KM – Royal College, and what do you see is the difference.
I think that you are a lot more geared for the industry but then again you have
creative constraints there as well you don't.... you can do whatever you like to
but you are taught how to realise how to utilise your ideas.
I studied at St. Martins quite a while ago now. I actually studied with John
Galliano - he was in the same class, but he is obviously a bit more successful
KM – But you're not dressed as a pirate!
No, I am a bit more classical, a bit more minimalist than John Galliano.
KM – God, that is not hard....
KM – Monsieur, what college did you go to - you went to the Italiano College of
"You do it or I'll give you a big kick"?
I attended the Instituto Marangoni which is a very important school in Milan for
fashion. In fact it is the most important in fashion in Italy. But I must stress that
there is no difference with the Royal College or St.Martin School of Fashion.
All are very well developed and quite tough schools of fashion. There are very
serious schools for the fashion industry and you must commit entirely to
I live in London and I come back and forward to work from London. If I walk
around the London streets, and now it is winter, you can see someone in a
t-shirt, you can see someone in a fur coat - I mean it is absolutely, they are
completely mad, there are not kind of rules there, everybody dresses how they
want and in a way the more scruffy, the more dirty you are, the chicer it is in a
kind of way. If you actually walk along the Montenapoleone now today where
our offices are, which is a really important fashion street in Italy, there are two
kinds of looks. There is a very kinda classic Max Mara kind of, very... and then
you have Donatella Versace's with the blonde hair and all the business.
KM – The real glitzy ritzy
All the jewellery... so there is two... but within those two kind of frames they
are actually very, very conservative.
KM – Why is it that the English find it very difficult to do that sort of big time
At the end of the day English people, England really don't give a damn about
fashion. I think they are interested in Fashion in the sense that they can
express themselves quite easily, but they don't need to feel they have to go to
Prada or big name shops to buy a dress to make them feel good.
It is not about Prada …They say "Oh you look great" - I got this from top shop
and I got this at the market. It is great....
KM – Are you saying that the Italians are different to that?
KM – Are you saying the Italians are more worried about the Bella Figura?
Absolutely and also as well the structure of the industry, in England you have
High Street. High Street is massive, you have top shops, things like this, throw
away fashion - you just buy a one off piece, there is nothing like that here.
There is nothing like it. You can find cheap copies there is no H&N here, there
is no Zara's. You can dress in London for a couple of hundred quid and look
amazing and with your last 50 quid buy yourself a drink. That is the mentality, I
am going to go out Friday night now and buy myself a new top to go out in.
In Italy things are more provincial. You see the women with their Prada bag,
with Sergo Rossi shoes, etc. but in London, there is a totally different spirit that
you see in the fashion and in they way that they dress. You find the woman
who when you see her , excuse me for saying this, but when you see her you
say "Mamma Mia what the hell is this!", or you see an extraordinary girl who
achieves something in the way she carries it off. The English are a little bit
more "sharp’ with respect to the Italians because they are a little more edgy
than the Italians.
In Italy even though it is quite a small country, the south and the north are very
different - we are obviously for a Northern Italian woman. Whereas I think that
Armani, we think Armani, although we respect him as a designer, tend to be
very cold, and again very anal.
KM – You think Armani is very anal?
I don't think Armani is sexy at all.
KM – You don't think they are sexy?
We are a very northern kind of style. Our woman has a very kind of hidden
sexiness. I don't think that is something Armani has.
KM – So you think she is more like a flasher?
KM – Naughty but nice.
OFFICIAL WEBSITE: Stefano Citron, Stephen Vernon, Greg Myler, Mila Achon Fashion, Milian