The Royal Jewellers S01 ep16 : La Nouvelle Bague Jewellery [Florence]
Interview with Leopoldo Poli
FLORENCE- Leopoldo Poli - La Nouvelle Bague - An actual"Renaissance Man" living in the real renaissance city of Florence,Tuscan jeweller LNB is leading the new renaissance of Italian wearable art.
My passion, my love is for art. I was a very, very bad student but I liked to learn. I wanted to know why beauty is beauty? Why beauty gives, as it is still giving me now, such emotion.
Leopoldo Poli – La Nouvelle Bague
Spiritually, La Nouvelle Bague is something like a laboratory, an experiment
looking for the new concept of beauty.
We have a lot of beauty around us in Florence, we have fantastic monuments,
fantastic churches, squares and with these ingredients, with this DNA, we are
able to perceive what is beauty today.
KM – What was the trigger for the Renaissance?
The Medici families founded the Bank system, Business, and the business of
Business. They were sponsoring art and convinced the Vatican to accept this
new concept of the beauty.
Artists are the big innovators. They wanted to transform modern lifestyle with
their own art. If you have to compare the Gothic style with the Renaissance
style, it was completely different. The Gothic style was made because it had to
oppress man. With the new situation, with the Italian church, everything was
changing, because it was possible to imagine this new kind of man and woman
and especially with the woman and man completely undressed it was possible
for them to live together.
To have possibility to describe, to paint the new of beauty, the new face, the
new colours, with the light it was fantastic. All these disciplines and all these
changes interacted with all the other disciplines like philosophy, sculpture and
KM – Why are you doing this?
My passion, my love is for art. I was a very, very bad student but I like to learn.
I want to know why, the secret of why beauty is beauty. Why the beauty gave,
as it is still giving me now, such emotion.
While was I studying and I was searching this mystery, I started to produce
jewellery. Why jewellery and not chairs or tables? Because in Florence there is
this big tradition. We are like goldsmiths, we like to use the hammer, to work
the gold or the silver. We like to use these tools, these very, very old tools,
because we want to search inside of the material, the spirit of the material.
My friend was a goldsmith and I was spiritually close with him. When he was
working, he was repeating exactly what his father was doing and I thought why
are these people repeating all these things? Not by chance, Marcelle
Duchamp, with modernism changed things at the time. We had this new great
architect, Philip Johnson in the United States, with his new buildings. In that
period we had the French movement called La Nouvelle Vague and with this
influence, I called this company "La Nouvelle Bague". Bague in French means
"ring" - the new ring.
We wanted to introduce, we wanted to change, and we wanted to hybrid ate
with the new techniques but with the new design and with the new movement
the jewellery, because jewellery is one of the parts of our life.
Jewellery is linked with "joy", and especially in the Italian language « Gioia » is
jewellery and ‘jewellery’ is Gioia. Jewellery has to stimulate the capability to
perceive pleasure and joy. With two different ingredients, first one is the
preciousness of the materials – gold, silver, enamel, and diamond. The second
one is a different level of perception is the subliminal – we are able to capture
what is inside the jewellery. Forms, shapes, antique and old values –jewellery
is linked with the joy to give, or with the joy to receive.
They are all important milestones of life.
KM – Marriage, engagement, communion?
Are punctuated by rings or necklace or jewellery. And jewellery has to be able
to interpret all these different conditions of emotions.
In the beauty usually there are quotations, there are some ingredients with
which we are able to relate with the period that we are living. It is important
now to search the new people able to give us new ideas. For instance you
mentioned before Frank Gehry.
He was great, because usually after post modernism he was able to create the
new kind of beauty. The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is an example.
KM – It’s incredible…
This structure was considered maybe a crazy structure, and now it is a new
emblem of beauty. Why? Because in this emblem of beauty there are the most
important ingredients with which, today, the beauty is made. With asymmetry,
with collapsing forms, new materials, the context in which these building is
made, all these ingredients, all these new situations are creating the new
concept of the beauty.
Try to imagine only 15 years ago, 10 years ago, nobody could be able to say,
‘ah, this is fantastic’ now everybody agrees.
Why? Because we are in this period that conventionally we are calling New
Baroque period in which we like to put all together the fusion in the music, the
synchronicity with the religion, the multi ethnic society create the new kind of
food. We like the fusion, we like the new hybridisation.
When I went to Japan, and I saw these people writing, I perceived that they
were painting in my opinion, they were not writing, and with this concept in
mind, I gave to them my writing as a painting, and it was perceived as a
painting. Buy why I am producing jewellery with the writing, because I wanted
to give added value to the jewellery.
KM – Extra meaning to the jewellery.
The extra meaning have a semantic value
KM – In other words you are building complexity. It is like when you create
great champagne or a great wine.
KD – What you are doing is not just making grape juice. You can taste the soil,
you can taste the winter, taste the summer…
Why do we have to the lose occasion to give something more? Why do we
have to give only gold and diamond? We have to give our personality, because
the people need to have our soul, not only our goods.
In this ring there is the Florentine style with the symmetry of the renaissance
but there is also the new pop as well - there is Andy Warhols as well! The
jewellery that I create is a metaphor. They have to be considered metaphors of
Why is the poet a poet and some journalists remain a journalist? Because one
is able to compose their own poems with the metaphors. I want to be
considered like a writer able to write my own short history with my jewellery.
OFFICIAL WEBSITE: La Nouvelle Bague Jewellery