The Royal Jewellers S02 ep7 : Henry Dunay Jewellery [New York]

Interview with Henry Dunay

Henry Dunay designs are crafted in 18 kt gold. Dunay only uses top quality russian cut diamonds. His precious and semi-precious stones are collected by him personally by the top sources of the world. Henry Dunay designs are exclusive and many are one of a kind pieces.


Dunay: In a way I feel that Henry Dunay has been put on this earth to do something special and
little by little I’ve developed into something more than just a jeweller. I’m an artist, I do objects of
art for 300,000, 400,000, 500,000 and I have people that buy it.

Dunay: I needed to have a job so I went that summer to New York to find a job, and I found a job
as an errand boy for a man by the name of Rudolph Castioli. He was a jeweller, I diamond setter, I
had a chance to do something and the enjoyment of working with your hands, that’s, that’s the joy,
to be able to create, to be able to give people beautiful pieces of jewellery, to see a smile in a
woman’s eyes.

Dunay: Basically I’m very quiet and I speak to people through my jewellery and all of my
jewellery has this movement, this feeling, someone would call it sexy, some women call it

Henry Dunay Jewellery

Dunay: When a painter paints a picture it’s canvas, and he gives you depth of field by using lines
and the way he does that. In gold we’ve always made it flat okay, I can’t give them that boldness,
that roundness, the best way for me to explain it to you is when you put a ball on a table, most
designers would take, they’d cut a third of that ball off and use that third with a hard edge okay. I
take that ball, turn it over and that’s the way my jewellery is, it comes around and it feels like it
comes back around and has that softness and jewellery to me has to be warm has to be enjoyed.

Dunay: My trips to Japan have been wonderful and there’s an oriental influence to my design and
Faberge book and the Laleif book, both of them talked about how they went to Japan and the
movement of the komono, the material, that flow, and I try to do the same thing in my jewellery.
For my clave work, people say it’s the best they’ve ever seen, it’s because if there is an “S” shape
to that piece, the first line of diamonds follows that “S” and then everything else goes around. So
what I’ve done is I’ve spoken to their subconscious mind.

Dunay: I gave a lecture to the Japanese School of Design quite a few years ago and at that time a
lot of the Japanese designers were winning awards for design, I mean they were making diamond
thing coming out of lapels and in necklaces they were going like this and I said to them, look, you
know I know you’re trying to do, be different and thinking so far out that you’re different, but look
at your basic art, look around you, there’s meaning to it, there’s meaning to my jewellery.

Henry Dunay Jewellery

Dunay: I see beauty in many things, I can look at 10 stones and one just speaks to me and one just
has something about it that

A personality.

Dunay: And that’s part of the start of a Henry Dunay piece of jewellery.

Dunay: When I first started with jewellery and I first started designing I felt like I had a hole in my
chest, I felt an un, ah, I wasn’t complete, I wasn’t complete and as I got a little bit larger, and as
the jewellery became more important, and as people accepted it more and more, the hole became
smaller and smaller and then the last 10 or 15 years I don’t even think about it any more, it’s, that
part is over.

Henry Dunay Jewellery

Dunay: I have people here that have been with me 30 years, 28 years, 25 I have two father and son
teams. One of the father and son teams is father son and son-in-law, and I like that, I like to bring
them in, I like to be able to train them from zero and bring them up. By doing that I train them in
my way.

Dunay: The other part is that I sit behind this desk and that’s the businessman, okay and the fight
between me and the guy that sits on that bench over there is tremendous. I always say when I go to
buy pearls in Australia, and I sit there and I’ll, the first day I come and it’s God this is great, oh my
God, and then I come back the following day, the businessman comes back, oh, alright, this I can
afford, this I can’t, oh, I can do without this now and all of a sudden, comes down to what I really

Henry Dunay Jewellery

Dunay: I really feel God’s given me a gift, I really feel that. No education in design but yet I see
things and there are times I do things, where the heck does it come from. We had pinch … we
made for P… Scotch in pure gold okay … and we carved it all in wax and everything was carved
and we were started to put it all back together again and then we put the neck on and then the base
was going to be put on okay, but what I didn’t calculate is when I would heat that up that there
would, the neck wasn’t big enough to let the heat out, so we got it nice and red and I’m looking at
it and it’s done, it’s finished okay and just at that moment the base was concave, it popped out, just
like that, just popped out and I’m looking at it and I pick up a hammer, whack it, it must’ve been at
the exact moment because it went right in the way it should and that was the end of it. What made
me pick up that hammer? I will never know to this day.

Dunay: One of the funniest things was making a chastity belt for a woman. The husband wanted it

As a joke right?

Dunay: No, I don’t think so, and she would come in, in black leotards and we would adjust it and
measure it, and fit it and the hardest part was the lock and then I had to make a diamond key.

OFFICIAL WEBSITE: Henry Dunay Jewellery