The Royal Jewellers S03 ep8 : Gavello Jewellery [Milan]

Interview with Elizabetta Gavello

Design, aesthetics, functionality, glamour; a few key words that sum-up Rinaldo Gavello's jewellery creations and his own style. His designs are examples of timeless quality, shaped by the rigorous lines of his rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. Anatomic jewellery, comfortable and ergonomic that reflects construction, volume and proportion between gem, metal and human form.

 

01.32
My company is called Gavello it’s a high end Italian jewellery brand. Prêt a porter with haute
inspirations.
01.40

01.45
The company was started about 30 years ago by my parents, Martha and Ronaldo in Milan. My
father was Italian and my mum’s Greek.
01.54

02.03
My father was a designer, my mother was in the business production aspect. My father passed two
years ago so now I am the one designing.
02.12

gavello jewels

02.18
It is a very, very beautiful job. I grew up in it, around it, it was part of my life.
02.26

02.35
After I finished school I went back to Milan, I actually did love design, I mean it was not
something that was completely out of my idea so I started studying industrial design as opposed to
jewellery design because my father his schooling was architecture so he was not a big believer in
jewellery design schools. He would rather I would study something that industrial design,
something more practical and then I would go and learn the job with him and then my taste is my
taste I mean it would get into the object anyway so it was exactly what I did and then I did a
goldsmith school practical, I learned to do every single step.
03.16

03.25
Today I do the sketches and I do the prototypes. I draw on paper and I carve in wax. I do exactly
what my dad used to do so. I’m young, I studied those at industrial design AutoCAD etc but I don’t
feel it, I feel the old style. I feel a sketch.
03.42

gavello jewels crosses

03.49
I was lucky enough to pass through all the aspects of the business so I wasn’t you know office
administration, sales, we have our own shop so I was selling in the shop. I had the contact with
people.
04.02

04.13
My Italian side, my father’s side is very northern, my father was from Torinos so we’re really from
the north, my Greek side is very southern, but I tend to mix both. I try to get the best out of the two
sides.
04.25

04.34
The axis of the design works is bound to shift I mean at some point it will inevitably turn east.
There are a lot of new generations in Asia, people who have studied in Italy and France and
England clearly and they’re going to go back probably to their family businesses that were big
production companies with no design and they’re going to you know insert the design aspect so I
do expect new generations from Asia. But I still believe we have a percentage of class, of old
world class in Europe.
05.07

gavello jewels earrings

05.17
Last year was my first BASA, my first BASA, my first BASA without my father and the first
BASA with my own stuff and you know you’re expecting your clients, you’re expecting to see
their faces, you’re expecting to see what they say, will they realise there’s a new hand in the
business or will they not etc, etc, I was terrorised. No problem.
05.41

05.48
In the 1980’s, 90’s, early 90’s we were a lot in Asia, Japan especially, my father was extremely
beloved in Japan, Japan is almost off the map. Our new map is Russia and the ex-Russian Republic
so we have three shops, we have Moscow, we have Kiev, we have St Petersburg and Russia and the
Ukraine and all the markets on that side of the world are opening and inevitably that’s how the
world you know turns, I mean at some point it shift from geographically speaking, economically
speaking, you go you search for new markets, there’s always new markets opening, you follow the
money, yes, you must because this is especially in the luxury business.
06.32

gavello jewels nature

06.41
The French always had this allure of being the jewellers of the Tsars, of the Maharajahs, of the
Kings, the Bouchant, Cartier, you know so they sort of there was this big allure over their heads.
They kept it difference I see with the French, is with the French and Italian I also see that in
fashion, you know the French seem to be a little bit more fancy, a little bit more frivolous, Italians
tend to be a little bit cleaner. When it comes to communication you perceive French in a different
manner, you perceive Italians in a different manner, a little more you know they’re sort of a little
bit, Italians sound and look calmer paradoxically because it’s in our, it’s the opposite, but French
are you know are fancier in a sense so I think that is how it started. Plus Italians always had the
production lines as Johann said. They were very good goldsmiths and you know they used to
produce stuff. They never actually emerged design wise, even though to me, I have one designer in
the jewellery world who I look up to and I just, I just admire and cry and she’s Italian, Etzo Peretti,
she made a difference at some point, she completely changed the style, took this organic very
simple look, not pure decorations something you’ll wear, something that will not catch into your
pullover, I mean her philosophy is very much mine. I admire.
08.07

08.14
Beauty, harmony, symmetry and simplicity is what drive me. If you manage to put these things
into a piece of jewellery you will never get tired of it, you will always love it, you will always
respect it, you will always want to cherish it and keep it for someone else to find that … so this is I
think what really drives me.
08.34

08.44
It’s funny, it’s unique, the things that happen in the jewellery happen in no other business. It’s
because it’s so emotionally linked, people come to a jewellery shop always for happy reasons you
know it’s either a birthday or they’re a gift, others some kid is born so you’ve got, it’s always for
something nice and so you do have a responsibility you know these things will inevitably create a
memory for someone so I try to keep that in mind as well when I design.
09.14

09.21
It was a gulf country and I will not name which one but I have seen during a private fair, jewellery
fair but for private sales you know trunk show style thing, there was one client who was shopping,
she was actually pushing a supermarket caddy full of jewellery and watches.
09.11

OFFICIAL WEBSITE: Gavello Jewellery