The Royal Jewellers S04 ep5 : Jorg Heinz [Pforzheim]

Interview with Jorg Heinz

Founded as the “Atelier for Pearl Jewelry” in Pforzheim in 1968, the Jörg Heinz Manufactory currently numbers among the most modern and most innovative of its kind in Europe. The modern jewelry clasps, which the firm’s founder Jörg Heinz invented and developed starting in 1974, are the basis for this family business’s global renown and its more than four decades of success. Products by Jörg Heinz are individualistic adornments of the highest quality. Today the focus of the business’s efforts has shifted from the function of the Jörg Heinz clasp to the design of various pieces and lines of jewelry. Jörg Heinz created the first variable jewelry system: its technical advantages are taken for granted today and its diverse designs are appreciated by people who love and wear jewelry.


Jorg Heinz is a family business and it's not only making jewelry, it's making jewelry with
fashion. Our product, especially the changing artist like Mystery sphere or Magic pendant, they
are so individual, you have so many opportunities and everyone can find his own piece of

The company started with my father in 1968. He came back from Denmark with my mother and
he started this production in part time, as a one man production and he developed the famous,
the changeable clasp system and started step by step, to grow. 09:24

I started design in part time and when I was finished I went to Copenhagen to get another view
on life, just because. In the workshop, on the same road we had Georg Jensen and we made
high class jewelry there. 09:52

Jorg Heinz mystery diamond clasp

At the time, Pforzheim was the center of gold manufacturing and we had all possibilities to get
the gold, alloys and tools and castings and other things. 10:17

I couldn't like the clasp for pearl necklace because for it was not good design, it was no good in
technology and I worked very hard to find the perfect plant and I got it. Until now it's our base

It was too early. They said it was, because it was, the idea was too new, clasp for pearl necklace
and finish. 11:08

We started at eight millimeters up to twenty millimeters. So it range approx. but not only for
clasp ,we had both types with the same technique inside. 11:28

I had to work very hard at the shops to convince the people there who were selling stuff to
convince then to do the best for the customer. 11:47

Jorg Heinz pearl necklace with mystery clasp

I joined the Baselworld Fair in 74 and from this time, every year in Basel and later on in Munich, Inorgenta Fair and later on we went to Japan and we got an importer in Japan. It was more traditional system, traditional system. We had to change the mind completely.


The class is not on the mechanism behind the bag. it's a piece of jewelry and therefore, many,
even today they're coming oh, you're only making the class, the parts and that's not true because
our clasp are always the jewelry, the highlight of the necklace.12:44

Earlier times, we had one piece of jewelry, a pearl necklace, was a clasp and that's it. You
couldn't combine it with anything else. You only can wear in sometimes in a year, especially
when something like this now, if you have a pearl necklace, including a pearl with a clasp, you
can wear that only pearl necklace and the other day you can wear a single pearl with a rubber,
go to sport, go to shopping and on the other day you wear the pearl necklace with a diamond
paved clasp for example, when to the opera. So the possibilities are so big. 13:28

Jorg Heinz mystery sphere

Today you can wear all designs. The occasional board clasp with diamonds, with karat stones, or
birth types, very big , very small it's quite different today. 13:54

The beginning I wanted to make a furniture designer. I began to make education as salesman
and full time at company. And after that my wish was to try to make goldsmith and my father
was very surprised and after that I stayed in the business.14:21

I don't do the same thing as my father at the beginning, because the times have changed. There
are things, they are already there, so we have to find new ways, we have to find our ways to go
into the future and in the last four years we had every year, we introduce our changing artists,
for example, and that's for our company, a completely new way. We have still the clasp but also
in the changing artistes, the clasp of it includes, but you can flip them up. You have a pearl
inside, you have a treasure. 15:00

It was a combination of my father and my brother. We don't study design, but I think you don't
need to study design to be a designer.But you can't design such a product by yourself. So you
have to, it's like a teamwork, the most important thing is to get the idea, the idea what to do and

Jorg Heinz mystery clasp

You are playing with forms, you are playing with things and suddenly you get an idea. You
can’t sit here and wait and wait. It's not possible, you get no idea. For example one morning a
person can decide hey we have to have something. We can transform, we can open, we
can close and all the others said, "oh my God how? How can we do that?" and then
another come with the idea, we can do that maybe like this and then we trying and we sometimes
often we are coming to wait and we can't go further because it doesn't work. And then another
one has the idea, hey we can do that in that way and we're trying and trying and we're
developing and something like this has the development time of over a year, until it came to the
market. 16:27

The mechanism inside, to, that it works lifelong. Jewelry piece lifelong and still materials,this is
a new, new stage of jewelry, making jewelry, there have to be that exact, the materials, the
pearls, they have to be perfectly round and when we are using 60mm Tahitian or South sea pearls
and we have only the space between fifty-eight and fifty-nine overall, then you can imagine
how difficult it is to find the pearl. 17:04

The problem is the gate between, you can look inside, if the pearl is too small, you can look
inside, it doesn't look good. If it's not round, you're stretching it when you close it, that doesn't
work. So you have, you need to have the perfect round pearls. 17:25

Some of these products, you have six different ways to wear it.You can wear it closed, like plain
ball class, for example, half open, full open, then you have the other side with the diamond
string on it, with the pearl inside, half open, fully open, so you have six different ways you can
close it, you can hide the treasure of you have a 1 karat diamond inside and use the pendant for
example. 17:56

The next step was a nugget shape of this type, and the magic pendant was one year later, it's a
pendant, not a clasp and you can turn the loop and you have three different use inner views. You
have for example a pearl, a South sea pearl, and you have full paved side and you have a solitaire
side with a half karat diamond. 18:29

You have to be a little bit crazy to do something like this. On the one side, it's really straight,
from the shape, round and straight and German, but on the other side it's so fun to play with it
and you have three, three piece of jewelry in one pendant. 18:52