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In
his painting, ' Venus,
Cupid, Folly and Time', the artist Bronzino, presents us with an
intricate, delectable, allegorical statement. The idea of the picture
is that love, plagued by other emotions, is foolish, and its folly
will be discovered in time. The painting is graceful, charming and
sensuous. Smooth and classical contours project a surface of enamelled
perfection ... Its subject is eternal.
There is nothing
allegorical in the unambiguous, elegant and exquisitely beautiful
Patek-Philippe timepiece, yet, common denominators do exist between
the watchmaker and the painter. This is perceived in the delicacy
of design, the ingenious simplicity of concept and the interest
and importance of time, as demonstrated and presented in quite different
creative manners. As in the case of 'love', a Patek-Philippe watch
is also eternal.
Man has been
fascinated by the passage of time, from the ancient observations
of the apparent movements of the sun and moon, at Stonehenge, to
the microcosmic mechanisms that propel the most miniaturised wristwatch,
in tight and accurate order. Some, sit and listen to its passing,
while others pace their lives, regulated by its relentless forward
march.
In today's throw-away
society there is an ever expanding market for the 'disposable',
the 'most popular', or the 'fun-style', item, none of which are
designed to last. In this our experimental and fast-paced century,
we are fortunate to enjoy a tangible reminder of more permanent,
traditional and classical ideals, in masterpieces produced by renowned
watchmaker, Patek-Phillipe, custodian of style, quality and artistic
merit. Patek-Philippe have been faithful to the ideals of perfection
and classicism for over 150 years.
It is the oldest,
independent, family-owned Watchmaker in the world. Founded in Geneva
in 1839, and situated at 41 Rue du Rhone on the edge of the picturesque
Swiss lakes by an exiled Polish nobleman, Count Antoine de Patek
and a young, French watchmaker and inventor, Adrien Philippe. Both
vowed that their watches would be the finest in the world. Today,
this vow of excellence, the very foundation stone of the company,
is continued under the auspices of the present owner, Phillipe Stern.
The Stern family
have had very strong links with Patek-Philippe over a long period
of time, prior to its purchase in 1929 by paternal grandfather,
Charles Stern. The traditional headquarters on the Rue du Rhone
are still home to this extraordinary company.
Philippe Stern
is a business man and not a watchmaker. His accomplished administrative
skills, his love of beauty and tradition and his astute observation
of the marketplace, governing objets d'art, has ensured a continued
superior standard of product and a select buying market for such
exclusive watches. His understanding of the diversity of the role
of General Manager of such a prestigious and long established firm,
is the result of a strong bond between the discipline of academic
achievement and many years learning the complexities of the family
business from the ground up. His father, Henri Stern, who is President
of the Board of Directors, relinquished his position of General
Manager in 1977, to his son, in the family tradition. Philippe Stern
explains the individual contribution made by three generations of
the Stern family and their long-term interest in the company.
"My family have always been in the watch industry, even producing
the dials used by Patek-Philippe. My grandfather bought the company
in 1929, when it was experiencing hard times. My father took over
in 1958 and it was just natural that I would follow him into the
business. In most family businesses the children slowly but surely
become interested through sheer exposure. I have a 19 year old son
and I would like him to take an active part in the company when
he has completed his education, but, that is something he will have
to decide for himself. I spent a number of years working in the
computer industry before I went to New York to work in the watch
industry. And here I am today and I enjoy it very much".
As our complex
cultures change with the demands placed upon them by economic, social
and political pressures, so too, must changes occur in established
business administration. This has been the case in the company of
Patek-Philippe.
"My grandfather's
main aim, was to re-establish the company and immediately after
its purchase he began to rebuild it. He did not live very long and
much of the responsibility was passed on to my father.
"During
the 1940's it was difficult to sell watches in Europe and particularly
in Switzerland, as it is such a small country and does not support
a population sufficiently large to accommodate the numerous exclusive
watchmakers that have their headquarters in this country. My father
became more daring and aggressive and travelled more than anyone
else had done before. He visited the United States and established
a distribution market there and also gained valuable points of sale
in Brazil and Venezuela."
It was this
initial exploration of the purchasing possibilities outside Switzerland
that was to have the important long-term effect of establishing
a Patek-Philippe International market, that stretched around the
globe.
Phillipe Stern
suggest that his contribution to the continued success of the company,
lies in the framework of modern business techniques, utilising the
computer to extend business information and establishing modern
methods, to enhance the excellence of his product into the 21st
century.
A Patek-Phillipe
watch is a single masterpiece of design. The fluid, symmetrical,
classical lines derive from those of the Renaissance masters and
the Golden Age of Ancient Greece. The balance, stability and detail
of high-order civilisations has been carefully studied and utilised
in each hand-finished piece. A Patek-Philippe timepiece is one of
a kind. Every single movement in every watch is finished by hand.
Synonymous with the name Patek-Philippe, is a simple, round faced
watch with a leather strap. From the Calatrava Line and referred
to as 'Number 3919' it is as popular today as it was when it was
first introduced in 1932. Phillip Stern tells why this watch grasped
the attention of the world and why it has maintained its position
of eminence for so long.
"It was
the watch chosen in an advertising campaign to establish Patek-Philippe
as a traditional, classical watchmaker of simple and uncluttered
design.This watch established an image for the company, as a perfect
example of the quiet restraint that the advertising promised. The
campaign was enormously successful and it was done at the right
time as buyers were looking for an 'understated' watch to grace
the wrist of both men and women, that displayed an image of sheer
elegance".
In more recent
years, the designers have produced a new classic, the elegant Golden
Ellipse, based on the golden section design principal of harmonious
proportions. The subtlety in this, lies in the unusual arrangement,
where no major line is precisely vertical or horizontal.
Patek-Philippe
were publicly honoured at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, held
at the newly opened Crystal Palace, itself an outstanding example
of engineering excellence and futuristic design. They were winners
of gold medals and also won the admiration of Queen Victoria and
Prince Albert, who both purchased Patek-Philippe watches. The Queen
selected an exquisitely beautiful pendant watch, enamelled in cornflower
blue, engraved and set with diamonds. It was one of the first watches
that could be reliably wound and set, without a separate key. At
the exhibition of 1851, Patek-Philippe were still in their infancy,
yet they displayed a range of ingenious and elegant timepieces that
would tempt the royal courts of Europe. All watches have similarities
to each other, rather like paintings produced in a particular style.
However, indisputably, while factors in common do exist, each watchmaker
has his own distinct and recognisable signature that separates him
from others in his craft. A Patek-Philippe watch evokes a response
in the buyer, of respect for its quality and genuine love for its
simplicity and good taste. As Philippe Stern says: "We are
happy with our simple, classical designs and do not intend to make
radical changes in the future. We will stay with the right look,
which we have already attained."
In 1989, Patek-Phillippe
celebrated 150 years of continuous service as watchmakers of outstanding
quality, discerning taste and extraordinary imagination. An exhibition
of exceptional watches took place at the Musee de L'Horlogerie in
Geneva, entitled, "The legendary Watches of Patek-Philippe'.
The exhibition featured over 400 outstanding examples, including
simple and complicated men's and women's pocket and wrist watches
limited editions of ladies' lapel watches and an officer's campaign
watch based on an early 20th century design, together with special
clocks and a selection of watchmaker's tools. Timepieces on display
illustrated the traditional crafts used by Patek-Philippe to make
and decorate its watches. The house of Patek-Philippe is virtually
the only place where enamelling, engraving and chainmaking are kept
alive as high arts.
Patek-Philippe
has owned a private collection since its foundation, to which special
timepieces have gradually been added. One of the highlights of the
exhibition was the famous Packard watch, purchased back by Patek-Philippe
in 1988 for over two million Swiss Francs. This complicated watch
was designed for James Ward Packard, the United States car magnate
and sold to him in 1927 for 12,815 SF. As a special commemoration
of this important occasion, the company designed and produced a
remarkable timepiece, the 'Calibre 89'. The calibre 89 is the implementation
of all that is known about mechanical horology. It is the most complicated,
portable timepiece that has ever been made. It is beautifully constructed
in 18 carat gold and has a staggering 1728 parts. It is without
question the most outstanding technical achievement to date. From
the initial design to the completion of the finished article took
nine years. It is expected that only four will ever be made, one
in each of the different colours of gold. The Calibre has 33 complications
which makes it a mathematical masterpiece that can calculate numberous
functions, many of which would be far too complicated for the average
watchlover to understand. It is an astronomical timepiece and can
calculate solar time ,mean sidereal time, perpetual secular calendar,
date of Easter, split-second chronograph and minute-repeater, among
many other complex functions. The eye catching star chart of sapphire
crystal shows the Milky Way and 2,800 distinct Northern Hemisphere
stars in five orders of magnitude. Two auxiliary dials show the
state of the leap year and indicate the morning, evening and night,
according to a 24 hour scale.
To the connoisseur, the horologist extraordinaire, or those fascinated
by the art of invention, this watch would be the ultimate expression
of precision and scientific perfection.
To go with this
portable timepiece, Patek-Philippe launched the Gentleman's complicated
wristwatch. This streamlined, thin, self-winding watch is probably
the most advanced wrist watch available today. A complicated watch
is costly to produce because the work is so exacting, fine and time-consuming
and there is such a shortage of the horloger complete with expertise,
to such an advanced standard. Philippe Stern reminds us, "that
you have to wait two or three years for a complicated watch. It
is impossible to produce them any faster because we have so few
watchmakers." This factor has not deterred the interest buyer,
particularly in the United States, where the 'complicated' watch
has produced such a large clientele. Philippe Stern points out the
importance of the 'family business' today for those who are interested
in the purchase of a Patek-Philippe watch, as a long-term investment,
a guarantee of quality and value is assured. It is interesting to
note, that there is a greater tendency towards manual watches, than
in the past. At least half of all buyers now choose a manual. Philippe
Stern suggests, that in his view, "the client enjoys giving
life to his watch every day because he feels that the watch is a
part of him."
Time, itself,
is beyond the control of man, but there are those who delight in
its intricacies, fascinated and enchanted by the challenge to harmonise
the parts, that provide the physical movements, that turn the hands
of time. Patek-Philippe is just such a watchmaker.
Today's watch
buyer is looking for quality, beauty and individuality and they
want to be assured that the watch they are wearing is readily recognisable
as a particular brand in just the same way as their haute couture
clothes. In the past this would not have been possible, as the company
produced upwards of 600 models in one collection. Philippe Stern
highlights the problem of anyone who was looking for a unique watch
would certainly not find it and would therefore not be interested."
In the period between the 1950's and the 1970's there was a request
for enormous variety and Patek-Philippe, like other watchmakers,
involved themselves with the demands of the time."
Today the company
produces different watches for different types of buyers, but they
have introduced a limit. They now concentrate on one major collection
together with an international campaign. This is not to suggest
that the remarkable inventiveness that the company is famous for
has in any way been harnessed. In fact, the situation is quite the
contrary. Patek-Philippe now have a prototype of a new watch. It
is an automatic and has the phases of the moon and a movement, mini-repeater.
Instead of seeing the time, you just hear it. The return to classical
form is now stronger than ever and according to Philippe Stern,
the company will retain its position on the international market,
into the next century, and beyond. Philippe Stern's personal love
for the company is crystal clear as he expresses his own interests
as the General Manager of Patek-Philippe in the nineties.
"I would
never tire of the demands and excitement of this business. It is
such an interesting product and is so aesthetically pleasing that
just being around it is such a pleasure. I enjoy the different people
that I work with and I admire the remarkable skill and creative
content that our master craftsmen infuse into our watches. It is
obvious, we would not survive without them. Our own Museum houses
a wonderful collection of our watches over the past 150 years. Our
watches are Art. Our museum is our art gallery and a constant reminder
and tribute to the master watchmakers of Patek-Philippe."
Philippe Stern
points out the other special attributes of a Patek-Philippe watch
that make it so vastly different from products of other well-established
and respected companies. "The special things about our watches
are the movements and the finish of each watch. Our movements are
different from those used by other companies. We make our own and
we have a different type, called the Geneva Shape.
"The finish
is so beautiful on the inside of the watch, that may of our clients
want a clear case in order to see the watch at work. We take immense
pride in our movements, and to the connoisseur the internal mechanisms
are important as the face and the hands. We spend so much time in
the preparation of our product, it takes much longer than conventional
watches to complete a movement, consequently it takes longer than
average to present the finished article". He explains that
because of the attention to detail and the length of time required
to finish each watch, particularly those with complicated movements,
a prospective purchaser may be disappointed to find that he has
to wait for such a special timepiece to be made. It is not always
possible to walk in off the street, and just buy a Patek-Philippe
watch, straight over the counter.
Lovers of fine
watches and objects of supreme beauty are prepared to wait in the
knowledge that anything that promises a lifetime of enjoyment, is
worth waiting for. As Philippe Stern suggest: "If you just
want the time, then you can buy any watch, but if you want a beautiful
piece of art that provides as much pleasure as a magnificent painting
or the engine of an exquisite machine, then you will buy a Patek-Philippe
watch."
Philippe stern
tells the story of the gentleman who returned with his watch, twelve
months after purchasing it, to report that it was not working. In
the year that he had owned the watch he had not noticed the time
at all, so mesmerised was he by its elegant beauty. In fact the
watch had never worked. It was actually a demonstration model, sold
in error, and had no movements inside at all, just a metal plate.
Philippe Stern
clearly demonstrates his own admiration and understanding of the
privilege of such ownership, by stressing that, "We in the
family treat our watches with such regard and respect that even
our family members do not receive a Patek-Philippe watch until they
reach the age of twenty.
The key words,
'perfection and ingenuity were established and acknowledge as the
lynchpins for success. The inventive mind of Adrien Philippe and
the business propriety of Count Antoine de Patek became a solid
basis for the development of ideas, the retention of beauty and
tradition and exceptional technical achievement. One of the early
inventions of Adrien Philippe, was the perfection of the keyless
watch in 1841, which revolutionised the watch industry. This was
followed in 1846 by the first watch with an independent secondhand,
and two years later by the first mainspring.
Their company
was born in an age of great change and excitement. The industrialisation
of the 19th century and the introduction of mass production, heralded
the threshold of a new world. Patek and Philippe, fascinated by
the possibilities of new technology, none the less wore allegiance
to the traditions of the past and vowed to produce only watches
of the highest order. From the very beginning they nurtured the
role in the company of designers, the goldsmiths, the engravers,
the enamellers and the jewellers. The factory production line and
the demand for instant gratification, had all but eliminated some
skilled artisans and there was a distant danger of master craftsmen
disappearing altogether. Aware that the key to success lay in team
work, the company trained their own specialists, understanding the
unique contribution that each individual made to the reputation
of the firm.
This tradition
is continued today at the headquarters of Patek-Philippe in Geneva.
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