Alain Perrin joined Cartier as a commercial attache in 1969, shortly after graduating from the prestigious business college "Ecole des Cadres & Affaires Economiques". By 1976 he had become President of Les Must de Cartier, the diverse marketing arm begun by his predecessor Robert Hocq. Under Perrin's guidance, 'Les Must' transformed Cartier, the retail and royal jeweller into a company with over 7,000 distributors worldwide whose raison d'etre is international marketing, whilst preserving the prestige and Cartier tradition. Following the merger of Cartier, the jeweller and 'Les Must' in 1981, Perrin became President of Cartier International. In 1984 he inaugurated the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art, dedicated to honour, encourage and defend the creative spirit and to perpetuate the name Cartier through its commitment to art and to history.

Perrin has ferocious enthusiasm and is highly flexible within the Cartier framework; a motivator who has built ' Les Must ' on PR and a good relationship with the press. Perrin doesn't quite work all the time, and when he is not, he retires to his 14th century chateau in Carhors, a conservative two hours drive from Paris where he delights in making his own wine.

VIVE.. Cartier had been a jeweller to kings for more than a century, but had seen nothing like the international success it has achieved since you joined the company. How did one young man introduce diversification and strategic marketing campaigns to a retail jeweller with the strongest sense of tradition?

PERRIN: What I brought to Cartier when I was young was a concept, that is all, and Robert Hocq allowed me to instigate that concept. It is always difficult when you are the boss to let someone young take the reins, but I am trying to do the same now - I believe in young people; the power is in the hand, it is in the head. Today in this group we have 3,400 people with an average age of 33 or 34. Many of our young people between 24 and 30 hold positions with major responsibilities.
One of my qualities is that I listen to people. You told me that I have the right image, but I am surrounded by people who advise me on all matters; to do this, to do that and I will take their advice unless I believe they are wrong. Sometimes they tell me that I should accept more invitations to go on television, but I have appeared on T.V. all around the world and I think that, in a way, T.V. cheapens the name of Cartier. I like to speak about precise matters and give quality information, for example to talk about the Cartier Foundation. If I am invited to speak about Cartier's commitment to Arts sponsorship, yes! If they want me to speak about myself and my family life, then no.

VIVE.. The Cartier Foundation is extremely important to you, personally, as is the involvement of private enterprise in the Arts. What is the philosophy behind Cartier commitment to patronage of the Arts?

PERRIN: I belive that the establishment of the Cartier Foundation will prove to be the most influential event in the history of the company, more important than'Le Must' .In France we are the foremost patron of the Arts and I like the idea because our philosophy is to assist the Arts; we want to participate in the culture of our country and there are two reasons for that. We are a rich company, we are not ashamed of being rich and we think that we have a role to play in freedom. Culture in Europe is not free - it has been in the hands of the governments for five centuries. I was one of the first to say this must change because I don't want the government to decide how I should educate my children and I don't want the government to impose on my children its taste in Art. So I think private enterprise has a role to play in expanding our artistic freedom and the notion of private initiative. I believe in private initiative, for this is the future.
So that's number one: free enterprise must participate. Number two is that the Foundation is a way of improving the fame and image of Cartier. It's not philantrophy: I want to help and participate in freedom, but I am a president of a company an' MY job is to make a profit. I am a Latin guy, don't forget - my blood is from Corsica so I am sensitive to art, to culture, to civilization, to education and I am not conservative at all. I don't like conservatism, but I am for private initiative.

VIVE.. Diversification and mainstream marketing have been the foundation of the Cartier renaissance. Is this also the strategy for the future.

PERRIN: The direction of Cartier is clear: Cartier has already gone wherever it could go in terms of lines. I will not create new lines, fashions, garments, ties or shoes. We are expanding our business by buying other businesses; we bought Piaget , Baume and Mercier, and also a well known French jeweller with seven stores and we will probably invest in other companies in the future. We stay in luxury
because it is our territory and we have the experience. We will be one of the four largest groups in the luxury industry at the turn of the century.

VIVE.. Does luxury hold the same appeal for people all over the world?

PERRIN: Cartier is a Latin name and sells wherever Latin people are, so all the Mediterranean countries including the Middle East are very successful markets for us. The Anglo Saxon country is another story and takes more time, but still we are in England, America and Australia. In Anglo Saxon countries the notion of luxury is different and the reason is very simple: they will not pay the same price for it.
You can never speak about exceptions - rich people are rich wherever they are: they spend money. I must consider the people who have a respectable revenue, let's say between $50,000 and $100,000 a year. An Italian or French man will spend any amount for something which is recognisable, fashionable and desirable. He wants it, so he pays for it, and he likes to pay for it because he knows that when he wears it people will know how much he paid for it. The Anglo Saxon - including Australians, South Africans, Americans and Canadians - they like to have luxury products but the price is a consideration and if an item appears too expensive for what it is, I know it will not sell in these
markets.
An Englishman will simply not spend money as a Frenchman does. He is right in fact - he thinks before spending. In Latin countries they always think after spending. Now the Germans, the Swiss, the Scandinavians, are entirely different again. Culturally, the Germans do not go for luxury products and the luxury market there only emerged about five years ago when the Deutschmark was strong. In Germany they used to wear luxury products for identification, to show who they were, without considerations of money or taste - it was all status.

VIVE.. In recent years Asia has rivalled both Europe and America as the strongest market for luxury goods. How has Cartier reacted to the opportunities which have arisen there?

PERRIN: So many people are making so much money with luxury products in Japan that I'm a little concerned. Their money is so strong that it is cheapening the notion, though not the quality, of luxury. In the Japanese market I am going slower than everyone else. I don't like my products to be too accessible. Still, Cartier is very successful in Asia and highly respected.

VIVE.. Of allyour many roles with Cartier, what gives you the greatest pleasure?

PERRIN: My greatest pleasure is creation: choosing products is very exciting because it is a form of gambling. At a certain level you are very traditional and then you have to gamble on something new; you place a bet and it's exciting. The Santos watch was really a turn in the life of Cartier -it is one product that is holy to me. I included it in 'Les Must'just ten years ago today and it has made Cartier the leading
watchmaker in the world. As for the product 1 love over all others, it is definitely the Panther line; the watch and jewellery and Panther per-
fume. It is typical of Cartier, it belongs to the Cartier history and 1 find the line very original, very creative and it is a great success ... and 1 like success! This has been my greatest excitement overall, to have raised a business from virtually nothing to a group which is profitable and successful with happy people around me.

VIVE.. You don't quite work all the time, what do you do to enjoy your business success?

PERRIN: I have a castle in the south west of france which is one of the oldest in France, built in 1503, and 1 grow and make wine. I have quite a large vineyeard, about 30 hectares or 80 acres and I produce about 200,000 bottles. This is my own world where I go with my family. My private life is unfortunately the smallest part of my life, but the most important. I have five children and I try to spend as much time with them as possible, but I leave home very early in the morning - sometimes I see my little girl if she is up, the others are always sleeping - and often I do not arrive home until after midnight so I don't see them except for the weekends. Then there are times when I am away, for example I am leaving for New York tomorrow so I won't see them this weekend. I have no social life apart from my business social life - you will never never see me at a cocktail party or a function if I do not have to be there professionally. It's not easy, but when I am available for a weekend or on our holidays, our time together is very precious.