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That
Raymond Weil decided to get his pilot's licence at age fifty-six
comes as no surprise to anyone who is even remotely familiar with
him. A man seemingly drive by the need to challenge convention,
Raymond Weil was fifty years old in 1975 when he lost his job with
Camy - then one of Switzerland's leading watchmakers, and rather
than settle for a sedate life of comfortable retirement, he mortgaged
his home, took out a loan, and established his own watchmaking company.
"I knew
nothing else," he says today of that momentous decision. "I
had been in the watchmaking industry since I was in my early twenties
and there was nothing I knew better. Although I must confess to
there being some degree of sentimentality involved in my decision-making
at that time. One cannot be in an industry for as long as I had
been and not feel some affinity with it."
But sentimentality
is hardly a firm basis upon which to start a watchmaking company.
This even less so in 1976 when the Swiss watchmaking industry was
undergoing perhaps its greatest crisis since the 1930's. Having
recently discovered quartz technology which circumvented the need
for craftsmen to manufacture the movements, the Japanese Had begun
flooding the world market with inexpensive timepieces. The Swiss
watchmakers, refusing to change or adapt their traditional approach
were left reeling from the impact that the Japanese were making
in terms of market share.
It was a period
of incredible flux within the Swiss watchmaking industry, an industry
priding itself on producing the world's best watches watches that
were also amongst the world's most expensive. And it was the very
expense of creating these watches which finally threatened the Swiss
industry as the Japanese products continued to undercut it. The
result was a rationalism of the industry, with Raymond Weil being
one of the casualties. Suddenly at age fifty, Raymond Weil was out
of a job after twenty-seven years with the one company.
Geneva born,
and educated at the Geneva School of Commerce, Raymond Weil had
worked at Camy since 1949, and his enforced resignation in 1975
left him with a wealth of experience just waiting for the right
situation in which to be applied. Ironically enough, it would be
the very quartz technology that was threatening the Swiss industry
which would prove the source of Raymond's Weil second professional
life.
Realising the
potential of the new quartz technology, and together with a former
secretary, Simone Bedat-also ousted from Camy in 1975, Raymond Weil
set about establishing his own watchmaking company.
"I was
very sure that given all the experience I had in the industry I
could do very well," Raymond explains. "When Simone and
I decided to produce our own line of watches we were certainly full
of hope, but hope was not enough to guarantee success, and we put
in a lot of hard work to get started." The hard work Raymond
talks about involved producing a dozen dummy watches using quartz
technology and then travelling the world to convince distributors
to take them. Their first watch, an 18 kt electroplated model which
looked expensive but wasn't due to the relative inexpensive of the
quartz movement, created a wave of enthusiasm. but not before Raymond
Weil himself had mortgaged his house and committed his life's savings
to cover the costs of starting up his new venture.
So tight was
the financial situation that at the 1976 Basel Jewellery Fair, Raymond
Weil had to display his twelve watches from a stall kindly donated
by a friend, and eat standing at a counter of a fast-food outlet.
This situation would change dramatically within the space of ten
years, but for the time being Raymond Weil and Simone Bedat were
content to travel the world at their own expense, meeting with potential
distributors from England to Saudi Arabia and everywhere in between.
Their big break however came after a meeting with an ex-bodyguard
attached to the Israeli Embassy in Paris. Benny Shabtai agreed to
become the exclusive distributor for Raymond Weil watches in the
United States. Shabtai's faith in, and aggressive promotion of the
brand brought Raymond Weil to the attention of the huge American
market, a market which today is the brand's largest.
It was 1977
and Raymond Weil had decided to name his watch brand Dinita in honour
of his two daughters, Diana and Anita, but opted instead to use
his own name on the advice of friends who argued that his own name
was already well-known after twenty-five years in the industry and
should be exploited. Another former Camy employee, Gilbert Petit-Jean
had now joined the small team as the person in charge of production.
Petit-Jean's appointment was a response to the positive impact of
Raymond Weil's few early models which in the space of one year had
managed to sell 3000 units. And Ask Raymond Weil whether this early
success was the result of luck and he will fix you with his eyes
and grin knowingly.
"Luck can
never take the place of hard work," he says, "and we all
worked very hard to make sure our watches were visible. We started
off with an order for ten, then twenty and then more and more. But
this only happened because Simone and I were willing to commit ourselves
to doing all we could to get attention for our samples. Once we
had importers interested we started extending the range of watches
we had available.
By concentrating
on using quartz rather than mechanical movements, Raymond Weil and
his team were free of any technical problems, and team instead to
focus their attention on developing the look of their watches, experimenting
with designs and styles in an attempt to meet the every changing
fashion demands of their potential customers. Avant garde designs,
fused with modern technological developments meant that Raymond
Weil could produce watches which, while bold and innovative in styling,
were nonetheless state-of-the-art. Further, the savings generated
by using quartz rather than mechanical movements were then able
to be passed on to customers, advantageously positioning Raymond
Weil watches at the upper middle price bracket: a market largely
ignored by the Swiss watchmaking industry.
It was a shrewd
marketing move, attributable to Raymond Weil's faith in the new
technology: making him the first Swiss watchmaker to embrace quartz
technology, and putting him in direct competition with the Japanese
manufacturers, who although using the same quartz technology, lacked
the design flair for which the Swiss had become famous. The market
for comparatively inexpensive but stylish watches was there for
the taking and Raymond Weil embraced it whole-heartedly.
"When we
started we could have gone to a large Swiss company with our idea
of developing a range of fashionable watches using the latest quartz
technology, especially given the climate of the industry at the
time and the challenges to be faced by anyone wanting to start from
scratch, but we wanted to be independent," explains Raymond
Weil. "I didn't want to waste my time organising meetings and
conferences and so forth. I wanted to be intimately involved in
all areas of production, distribution and promotion."
One of Raymond
Weil's most strident goals was to make watches which were pret-a-porter
(ready to wear); watches which would be known for their fashion
sense and affordability. His coupling of quartz technology with
a keen marketing sense put Raymond Weil at the head of the movement
in the late seventies toward watches which were as much fashion
accessories as they were functional time-keepers.
"We came
in at a time when there was a gap between what the Japanese were
doing and what we Swiss were producing," he adds. "Switzerland
was a little behind technologically and we filled that gap with
watches that were distinctly attractive and reliable, yet very affordable.
Our combination of style, design and affordable price is very important
to our success." As important perhaps as the elaborate distribution
network Raymond Weil, Simone Bedat - and since 1982, Raymond's son
in-law, Olivier Bernheim have established.
Working out
of an office in the Jura watchmaking region of Switzerland, Raymond
Weil likes to have a hands-on approach to his work. While Gilbert
Petit-Jean looks after all the technical details of production at
the company's ultra-modern Les Brenets atelier near Neuchatel, Simone
Bedat oversees design, production and promotion, and Olivier Berheim
sales and marketing. Raymond Weil continues to travel the world,
putting a genial face to the watch that carries his name.
The seventy
world-wide distributors Raymond Weil watches have direct access
to the three principals: Raymond, Simone and Olivier, and can usually
get a decision on any issue, or answer to any question within hours.
There is nothing of the ivory-tower mentality at Raymond Weil, the
continued success of the entire organisation depends on the company's
ability to respond quickly and accurately to the changing demands
of the market place. As a point in example, at the time of Milos
Forman releasing his film Amadeus, Raymond Weil appeared to have
anticipated the interest that would be generated by the film by
producing a watch of the same name. Not only was the watch released
before the movie, but Raymond Weil executed a major publicity coup
when he personally presented the watch to the film's director.
That Raymond
Weil should have fortuitously brought out a watch with a musical
theme at the time of such a major cinematic event, is not as coincidental
as one might think: literature and art, and classical music in particular,
being areas of intense interest within the Weil's family. One of
Raymond's daughters is in fact a professor of the piano, while the
other is an accomplished painter and sculptor. The influence of
great music has always been of significance to Raymond Weil, and
it is little wonder that some of his major watch collections should
reflect this heritage: collections such as Adagio, Concerto, Traviata,
Fidelio, Orthello and Tosca. More recently there has been Nabucco,
a stunningly beautiful tribute to the master Italian composer, Giuseppe
Verdi in the style of ancient Babylonia.
"In many
ways watches are looking more and more like jewels," says Raymond
Weil. "I guess what we did was respond to the customer's demand
that watches be fashion accessories as well as reliable timepieces.
People all over the world love what we do with our dials for instance
making them in a variety of materials and colours, shapes and sizes.
While it may be nothing new to have elaborate dials and elegant
bands and so forth, the fact that our watches are immensely affordable
is a very important part of the success of Raymond Weil watches."
It was Raynond
Weil's recognition that people wanted quality and elegance at affordable
prices that allowed him to take an initial production run of a mere
twelve watches to something close to 600,000 within the relatively
short space of fourteen years. No-one else had been able to emulate
this kind of market penetration in the watch industry anywhere in
the world in so brief a time. While most other manufacturers keep
watches in stock to a practical minimum, Raymond Weil is heavily
stockpiled in outlets around the world. The company has seized the
opportunity to supply distributors with their merchandise quickly
so that an ever-increasing demand for Weil watches can be promptly
met. In 1987, when other manufacturers were felling the grip of
the slump in the market after the stock market collapse, sales of
Raymond Weil watches rose by a staggering 30% over the previous
year; an unprecedented increase for any watch manufacturer.
Today over twenty
airlines sell Raymond Weil watches on board their aircraft as part
of their duty-free agreements, as far cry from the days when Raymond
Weil himself could scarcely afford the price of an airline ticket.
And as part of the Weil philosophy that both his watches and the
man behind them should be accessible, Raymond spends a considerable
part of his year jetting from country to country - his watches being
available in all five continents today, meeting and talking with
the people who sell his product.
As testimony
to his belief that only someone who lives in a country can really
understand, and therefore anticipate the needs of the people in
that market, Raymond Weil refuses to employ anyone but locals to
run his international operations. It is a strategy that has proven
effective, allowing Raymond Weil to streamline his manpower to the
mere 35 staff who work directly for him in Switzerland, and distribute
under agreement with locals who hire their own staff and set up
their own outlets as required. All watches are assembled under the
direction of Gilbert Petit-Jean from components bought from Swiss
suppliers and then shipped to Weil's international representatives
on request. This allowed him access to outlets such as the large
department stores in the seventy different countries with their
enormous customer base.
It has been
said of Raymond Weil that he is nothing if not a master conductor
of his company's destiny, playing every instrument in the complex
orchestra of his watchmaking concern without seeming to dominate
any of them. His is a very subtle control, as evidenced by his decision
to involve the company in sponsorship deals to promote up and coming
young musical and artistic talents in his homeland - the annual
'Diplomatic Golf Cup' in Evian, and even act as a patron for the
National Opera Company in Australia: all events that associate the
Weil name and therefore the Weil product with life's more refined
activities. it is amove calculated to cultivate an image for the
Raymond Weil brand, one that sees the company now creating for the
first time, watches made of solid gold rather than electroplate.
Not that Raymond
Weil are necessarily looking to challenge the established prestige
names at the top end of the watch market, rather they are looking
to consolidate their position at the upper middle, lower upper price
bracket. With the most expensive Raymond Weil watches hovering around
the $2000 mark, these new models are seen to be attractive alternatives
to their more expensive counterparts rather than vehement competition
to them.
"I don't
believe in diversification," explains Raymond Weil. "If
you are good at something then you should keep in that line. And
I am very optimistic about what we are doing, because more and more
people are looking to buy watches that show off their good taste,
and it is precisely this demand that we have been able to continue
to address."
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