|
Silver
objects embrace their surroundings transforming them in ways that
call into question all concepts of solid surface. It is a paradox,
that in the very act of reflection, a silver object carries the
beholder towards its unseen heart to hover in a state between real
and surreal image, between stillness and motion. As a substance,
silver is illusionary with a power both subtle and compelling. Disturbing
sensations of ambience are called forth as we are drawn towards
the warmth of our reflected world then started by the cold perfection
of the object's touch, leaving the witness mark of our humanity
to spoil that perfection
It is a twentieth
century notion that the earlier examples of gold and silversmiths'
art should be preserved for age or artistic merit. Silver and Gold
plate was normally held in reserve so that whenever the need arose,
it could be melted down into coin. The peak period for this activity
was in 17th and 19th Century France. Some may remember the word
'silver' being interchangeable with 'coin' - "Do you have any
silver in your pocket?"
An almost impossible
thing for modern man to imagine is a world without mirrors. The
silvering of glass produces the perfect aid to human perception,
including most importantly self-perception. Our mirrored images
are of course coloured, but they also acquire something of the nature
of the silvered space before us that occupies another dimension.
Together with photographs, the mirror provides the only way to see
ourselves as others see us. Or does it? Who has not, in a contemplative
mood, stared at the image in the glass only to find 'a stranger'
staring back. Art and literature is filled with references to these
moments of self-revelation.
Silver objects
take their place in a particularly pleasurable way in front of a
mirror and an array of small silver objects multiplies into a magic
infinity if the mirror 'has wings'. These small items are most valuable
to the collector and in the past many were referred to by the delightful
name 'objects de virtu'.
The term 'objects
de virtu' has nothing whatever to do with the morality but derives
from the expression 'virtu', meaning a small object of artistic
beauty and rarity. It is these objects in particular which provide
a window to the social life of the 18th Century. they include; Boites
a Mouche (Velvet patch boxes), boites a Rouge (Make up boxes), receptacles
for powder and comfits, Etuis-a-Cire (boxes for needles and wax);
pill boxes, Vinaigrettes for scent, seals, chatelaines for watches,
cane and parasol handles, scent bottles and shoe buckles. Amongst
these, snuff boxes are perhaps the most popular item for the collector
although years of wear may have removed the hallmark leaving a dating
problem. Taking snuff had been socially fashionable since Columbus's
day with some of the finest craftsmen devoting their labours to
these small pleasurable items. Silver snuff boxes were particularly
popular because of the materials' property of keeping snuff fresh.
All good snuff boxes have close-fitting lids or covers. Male attire
in the 18th Century included waistcoats with pockets large enough
to hold 3 inch long snuff boxes and occasionally one finds a double
boxes for separating grades of snuff. The Castle Top variety was
made by casting from moulds which covered a range of castles including
Windsor and Warwick castles. The best English examples are by, amongst
others, Birmingham Silversmiths Nathaniel Mills, Joseph Taylor and
Thomas Birmingham Assay office mark (an anchor) together with a
sterling silvermark, the date-letter, the duty mark of the current
sovereign's head and the initial of the original silversmith. The
complete silvermark is split on most boxes between the cover and
the base of the box, with the maker's mark often appearing on both.
In 18th century
France, the beginnings of a new style arose. The Majestic style,
associated with the building of Versailles, now gave way to a style
called Regence. All Europe relinquished the Baroque forms in favour
of a lighter Roccoco mood. Ideas were taken from rock work, shells
in graceful undulating curves and reversed 'C' scrolls with a continental
use of Chinoiserie lending a delightful asymmetry to the design.
A nonetable example of this type of form is the Bombe shape whose
movements sway and is without straight lines. Cast decorations were
applied asymmetrically to disguise the basic shape regularity. Some
of the finest works to appear reflect this style: 'white' silver
was preferred to silver gilt. In France, the country of the style's
origin, J.A. Meissonier showed his complete mastery. Although much
of the great work has been melted down it is impossible to see the
work of Thomas German (1675-1748), the greatest French Silversmith
of the first half of the 18th century. In addition to his work for
Louis XIV and Louis XV he made famous pieces for the Portugese Royal
Family which were lost in the catastrophic earthquakes in Lisbon
in 1755. In Dresden, J.M. Dinglinger (1664-1731) created objects
of extraordinary fantasy amongst them, "The Great Mogol's Birthday
Party" which depicted a metre square stage set with over one
hundred figures of guests, fit bearing attendants and exotic animals
in gold and silver gilt embelished with precious stones.
English tea
pots in the swag-bellied style have come to epitomise the English
tea culture embodying as they do a quality difficult to define but
part of the image we call British. "This happy breed of men,
this little world, this precious stone set in a silver sea,"
as Shakespeare described. English silver tea caddies made in the
reigns of King George II and George III are usually rectangular
or oval with a flat top and bottom. Plain or elaborately chased
they were often made in matching pairs. The best ones came in a
'shagreen' (green tinted sharkskin) covered case. English coffee
pots of the first half to the 18th Century have a Middle Eastern
look to their spouts and handles curving about their bodies in graceful
arabesques. Stylistically speaking, the greatest Chinoiserie influence
seems to be in the tea caddies, housing their expensive contents
within a "House of Precious Treasures" appearance.
About 1800 the
Neo-Classical style moved into a new pash, fired by the desire to
reproduce even more styles of antiquity which included Egyptian
and Etruscan forms. In France the new style became known as 'Empire'
which corresponds with Regency style in England. Silver gilt was
much used in work at this time, reflecting the highly cultivated
taste of the Price Regent, later George IV. In France, the firm
founded by M.C. Biennais (1764-1843) rose to success in the service
of Napoleon's Imperial dream and again the use of silver gilt was
preferred. So highly regarded was the British firm of Garrards,
that in the 1820s, the great Paris goldsmith Odiot sent his son
to work there and ordered English machines for his Paris workshop.
Garrards had started in 1802 when Robert Garrard Senior took control
of the company and then succeeded Rundell and Bridge as Royal Goldsmith
in 1830. Much of their financial success was due to the fact that
they reproduced everyday silverware in contemporary styles, good
solid pieces whose weight and value was immediately apparent. They
gained further notice by furnishing cups for many well known horse
races including the Ascot Cup which was created by Edmund Cotterill
who joined Garrards in 1833. As early as 1814, Paul Storr made an
electrogilt silver goblet and by 1840 the Ekington cousins of Birmingham
took out the first patents which led to their revolutionising and
monopolising the plating industry. They employed a number of French
sculptors the most successful of whom was Leonard Morel-Laudeuil.
Unhampered by
the rig assay systems, of European rivals, the firm of C.F. Tiffany
(1812-1902) was able to show at the 1867 exhibition in Paris, work
which reflected the simpler style stimulated by the resumption after
many years, of trade with Japan. The 'Aesthetic Movement' as the
Japan-inspired style became known, was more palatable to the Western
intellectual elite than were the eclectic revivals of previous styles
which continued to enjoy public approval. In 1876 the English designer
Christopher Dresser (1834 -1904) visited Japan, buying both for
Tiffany and the South Kensington Museum (now Victoria and Albert
Museum) in London. Dresser's functional designs, drawn with the
machine in mind and made to be executed in either silver or silver
plate were marked by their beauty and simplicity of shape; no decoration
blurred their furnished surface. Japanese influence appeared in
the shapes he used and the positioning of the handles of his objects.
The firm of
Liberty of London exploited the appeal of Ashbee's Guild style.
It was in keeping with the general Art Nouveau style of the 1880s
and also with Liberty's original reputation as importer of Oriental
goods. Liberty's silver bore hammer marks which made the work look
as if it was completely handmade.
In fact, the
hammermarks were either included in the die-stamp or added to a
spun piece after it was finished. The Hammermen had returned - albeit
in robotic form! The designs of the Glasgow architect; Charles Rennie
Mackintosh (1868-1928) were more influential in continental Art
Nouveau than they were Britain, showing a development from 'sappy'
tendril-like hot house curves to a tauter, more purposeful and energetic
style more appropriate to the 20th Century.
Even the most
infrequent collectors of silver should know something of the vast
subject of hallmarks which is linked to the development of the guilds.
As early as 1275 an ordinance was issued reminding the guilds that
each town should have its own mark. In 1355 we have the first reference
to a maker's mark, a device used at the time. After 1540, initials
were added with the date and letter system not becoming obligatory
in France until 1506 (although instituted 50 years before). By the
14th Century most leading towns of Europe had well established bodies
of gold and silversmiths. At this time all records make mention
of the town mark. The date-letter system is of considerable antiquity
and familiar to French and English collections. The initial motivation
was not to date a piece but to ascertain which Assay Office-Master
was holding office so that blame could be apportioned if a piece
was found to be substandard.
In 1672 a permanent
system of taxation was instigated in France; charge marks and duty
marks as well as date and letter were used until the revolution
when marks changed completely. The punitive powers of guilds were
dissolved in 1797 and since then it has remained the responsibility
of the state. After 1839 a single mark was used, a practice which
is still in existence.
London marks
have remained virtually unchanged from their introduction in the
15th century until present day. The Leonard's Head, a famous London
mark was obligatory by 1300 and a regular date-letter system, in
cycles of 20 years began in 1478. By 1543 the Lion Passant appeared
and thence forward the same four marks were employed in London-
Marker's Mark, Lion Passant, Leopards Head and Date-letter. The
reigning sovereign's head appears as a duty mark between 1784-1890.
In Germany, both Nuremberg and Augsberg had regulation marks governing
gold and silversmiths. The letter 'N' was in regular use by 1516
and Augusburg (The Pineapple) in 1529. Nuremberg introduced the
date-letter system in 1766 continuing until mid-19th century as
did Augsburg in 1735 discontinuing it about the same time as Nuremberg.
In other countries, notably the Netherlands and Scandinavia, highly
organized guilds with similar systems maintained high standards
and great emphasis is placed by collectors on these markings. The
credit for instituting an alphabetised system of dating goes to
Montpellier in 1427. No institution is without its corrupt side
and unscrupulous gold and silversmiths were not above stamping low
quality work with the mark of another town.
Men have risked
life and limb to "Pluck the silver apples of the moon".
As travel to South America has increased, so has interest in Pre-Columbian
gold and silver which includes some of the most exotic objects ever
made. Although mostly plundered by the Conquistadors and subsequently
melted down upon arrival in Europe, some hauntingly beautiful objects
remain. Notable cultures in this field were the Chavin from the
Northern Andes of Peru ,the Mohica of North Peru and Nasca
in the South and the Tihuanaco of the Lake Titicaca area of
Bolivia from whence came the famous 'Whistleing Vases". the
Chimu succeeded them with Zoomorphic designs and ceremonial knives
which rank as masterpieces, eventually being overrun by the Incas
in the 13th Century A.D. The American Museum of Natural History
in New York houses a silver cast Llama with a saddle blanket of
inlaid gold and cinnabar which is a superlative example of its genre.
Of course much of the silver in south America is of European design
and workmanship. There are numerous altar pieces composed entirely
of silver or gold in both public churches and the chapels found
in private homes. The accompanying ecclesiastical garments are amongst
the most ostentatious and magnificent garments seen outside the
Vatican.
In the mid 1970s
I had the pleasure of witnessing a most delightful example of conspicuous
display just outside Oruru in Bolivia during a religious festival.
Gypsies arrive in huge, rounded black American Oldsmobiles which
were literally covered with huge canteens of antique solid silver
cutlery soup tureens, large trays and turkey covers amongst others,
all secured with festival ribbons and coloured rags, poised above
the car windows from which smiling gold-toothed gypsies absorbed
the gasps emanating from the Indian, Spanish and tourist festivalgoers
alike. On that morning, "The Romance of Silver" took on
an entirely new meaning for me!
One cannot leave
the vast subject of silver without reference to the important and
intimate field of human adornment. Silver jewellery has its own
kind of beauty. It's subtlety on skin or cloth can be without peer.
In the evening it calls forth poetic reference in the moon... "Was
I deceived or did a sable cloud turned forth her silver lining in
the night?" - with these few words, Milton paints an immediate
image of the perfect analogy for a woman adorned with silver.
In the 18th
Century jewellery had become involved almost exclusively with the
setting and display of gems. During this time there was a fashionable
preoccupation with the art of jewelled objects unparalleled in other
periods. Around 1700 the "brilliant" cut, discovered by
a Venetian, Vincenzo Peruzzi contributed to the establishment of
the diamond as the pre-eminent gemstone. Colour was frequently avoided
in this period, the diamonds being set in silver. By the latter
half of the 19th Century great changes in taste had affected even
the most cautious designers. A newer lightness and abstraction permeated
their work and with the recent discoveries of mines in South Africa
diamonds were in plentiful supply. During the 1890s stones in gold
settings were completely out of vogue. the aim of the 'Joallier'
- a jeweller who worked in precious stones -was to create a practically
invisible setting and silver (sometimes gold-backed for stability)
was used for diamond necklaces and tiaras with diamonds frequently
combined with 'colourless' stones like moon stones, opals and pearls.
During the Art
Nouveau period, many important silver pieces were produced, often
with the characteristic curvilinear design incorporating a woman
and plants with convoluted forms. The use of translucent stones
set in silver adds to their wearability then and now.
The raw material
of the fabric of human imagination is illuminated by a magic thread
and that magic thread is silver the colour of the ethereal and the
unknown. Silver is past and present and undoubtedly, those who have
designed our tomorrow have coloured them silver.
Both silver
and gold in natural form are too soft for practical use and so they
are alloyed with other metals, normally copper for additional strength.
The question of alloy is the basis of almost every ordinance emanating
from goldsmiths' guilds. After smelting, the molten metal, alloyed
in accordance with the standards laid down by the guild concerned,
was poured into moulds corresponding as far as possible to the shape
of the object being made. The basic tool of the Silversmiths' trade
is the hammer. Guilds of 'Hammermen' existed in past times - Blacksmiths,
Whitesmiths (Silversmiths), Coppersmiths and others. The hammers
have a variety of faces with degrees of convexity. Wooden mallets
covered with hide are also used but today, much of the preparatory
work is no longer necessary as silver sheet is supplied in any size
required.
Three principle
ways of decorating plain silver include embossing (repousse work),
chasing and engraving. Embossing raises the surface of the metal
in low relief and with a salver or tray the process is carried out
on reverse side. At this point to avoid distorting the object, the
silver piece is firmly bedded on or filled with pitch.. As a roughly
raised pattern at this point, small punches and light hammers then
have to be used to finish the object with a refinement of forms.
Chasing may be distinguished from engraving in that design can be
seen on the reverse or inside of the pieces. The chasing outlines,
the pattern on the surface then cuts and slightly depresses the
design. The engraving process utilises a tool with a sharp cutting
point called a 'scorper'. The most widely used engraving process
in England from 1775 to 1795 was 'bright cut' work which gave the
surface of the metal reflections of tiny facets. This process was
a specialised trade in itself with women traditionally doing the
polishing. After immersion in a weakened solution of sulphuric acid
it was poured and cleaned before polishing, however for the past
100 years, most polishing has been done by machine.
The 18th Century
was a period in which the machine replaced many of the processes
previously performed by craftsmen: a time of slow but sure industrial
change. Larger firms superseded small workshops with silver production
becoming cheaper heralding the invention of substitutes. Sheffield
plate appeared about 1742. A sheet of copper, it was found, could
be fused by heat to a think skin of silver then put through a rolling
mill; the two metals expand in unison and can be used the same way
as a sheet of silver at less cost. These rolling mills were initially
horse powered, giving way later to water power followed by steam.
Dyestamping and swagging machines made patterns, copper wire was
plated silver and drawn out to strengthen and decorate pieces. The
observation of various methods of concealing the raw copper edge
can be used by collectors to date the piece fairly accurately, for
example, the simple sheared edge was used from 1743-58. Joseph Hancock
introduced the method of overlapping the silver to conceal the copper
edge from 1758 to the 1870s. Also from 1775-1815, a method employed
the fitting a 'V'-shaped length of sterling silver wire over the
edge of the plate and soldering both sides. Burnishing was also
used. Sheffield plate was suitable for ornamental piercing and special
hard steel tools were developed in the 1770s.
Matthew Bolton
(1720-1809) at his Soho factory in Birmingham was one of the first
to employ industrial processes on a large scale. These new industrial
methods suited the growing fondness for Neo-Classical designs which
spread through Europe and America from the 1760s. The new simpler
styles were influenced by the Roman architect Piranesi and by the
archaeological treasures then being uncovered. Manufacturers using
these latter techniques were able to cater to an ever increasing
prosperous middle class. Scottish silverware, notable for its great
simplicity reached a peak in the 1730s -1740s. Colin McKensie and
James Sympsone were making refined, nonornamental pieces which sometimes
included magnificent coats of arms. Silverware produced in this
period may still be found. Town marks can be an accurate guide.
Although Glasgow began a date-letter system in 1681 it was not used
regularly until 1819. A Swedish silversmith of great talent, Andrew
Fogelberg was working in London however the finest silver produced
in this period still came from France.
Initially the
process of electroplating involved the use of a copper base which
gradually showed through with wear as it had done with Sheffield
plate, then layer of whitish alloy was interposed between copper
and silver. This was 'German or nickel silver (a mixture of copper,
zinc and nickel) invented in China and introduced in England in
the 18th century. By 1836 the copper base was replaced entirely
by one of approved nickel silver, now called 'Argentine silver'.
Another metal, a mixture of antimony and tin, which originated in
the 18th century and had been used by the Sheffield palters, was
also electroplated. This was called 'Brittanica metal'. the great
advantage of using a 'white' base metal and of the electroplating
technique itself was that when the silver wore away, the colour
of the exposed base was less obvious and, additionally, the object
could be put in the vat for replating as often as required.
From 1842 G.
Christofle (1805-63) in Paris began making electroplated goods under
licence from Elkington's of Birmingham. All his designs were available
in both silver and electroplate, an important selling point. A turning
point in Christofle's career came when his nephew Henri Bouilhet
joined the company. 'An engineer and chemist, he devised a machine
for stamping out spoons and forks and developing a method of producing
large scale architectural ornaments in single pieces on a commercial
scale. With advances in technology, silversmiths found themselves
able to copy exactly all known historical styles and to simply add
naturalistic details to them.
|