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The
1992 Winter Olympics, at Albertville in France, presented a spectacle
of stunning landscapes and dynamic expression, rendering an artistic
forum for the enterprising talent of 'Lalique'.
This captivating,
winter wonderland, featured outstanding athletes who had stretched
their creative aspirations to the limit, exhibiting a profound dedication
to their craft, persistence in the face of adversity and precision
in the pursuit of excellence. It is in this spirit of commitment
to perfection that we acknowledge the inspiring achievements of
'Lalique', the prestigious French glass company chosen by the Olympic
Committee to design the 1992 Winter Olympic Medals, for the first
time in crystal. It is fitting that this unique variation in design
specification should be executed by a company whose entire philosophy
is based on the free interpretation of nature in art.
The result is
an exquisite marriage of finely chiselled crystal set in gold, silver
and bronze. Glacial, snow covered mountains, engraved in intaglio
on the back of each medal, soar majestically to the sky. Five interlocking
Olympic rings overlap the valley floor to complete a picture of
winter harmony. The precious metal, encircling the design, hosts
the stylised laurel branch above the scene, and displays the words
'XVI Olympic Winter Games' below, creating a flawless, unified image.
'Lalique' is synonymous with French culture and occupies an illustrious
position in the developmerit of 'contemporary style'. Their outstanding
achievement in the creation of crystal artefacts is well recognised
in a country acclaimed for its overwhelming contribution to art
heritage.
Lalique is an
extraordinary company, not only due to the nature of its quite remarkable
product but by virtue of its continuity as a family enterprise.
The immense talents of Rene Lalique, born in 1860 at Marne in the
Champagne region of France, were inherited first by his son, Marc,
and in turn, by Marc's daughter Marie Claude, maintaining three
generations of Lalique originality in glassware.
Born into a period of great change in the visual arts, Rene Lalique
was influenced by the'Nature' artists of the 19th century. The'Barbizon'group
who broke with the restrictions of classical conventions to open
up newvistas in'pleine air'painting, and the later Impressionists,
heralded the dawn of the modern movement, contributing to one of
the most exciting periods in French art.
Rene possessed
a rare, natural gift for design and colour. His talents transcend
the creative arts, demonstrating an amazing proficiency as painter,
goldsmith, jeweller, interior decorator and above all, glassmaker.
He was to change the direction of early 20th century design with
his bold and vibrant compositions.
Rene joined
the jeweller Louis Aucoe, In Paris, at the age of 16 as an apprentice
and embarked on a career that would elevate the dull and lifeless
jewellery of the time, to the vibrant and exhilarating, 'Bijou moderne'.
Early in his career he developed an original and much sought after
style, winning the prestigious'Croix de Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur'
in 1897.
His natural flair for transposing the real in nature, to the imagined
in jewellery, created a turning point in conceptual impressions
as he introduced figurative and organic forms and fluid sculptural
goldwork, using the contours of the naked female body to suggest
the curvaceous 'Art Nouveau' line. The sensuous, graceful female
who languishes seductively in bold relief, is a recurring theme
throughout his career, arousing an enigmatic spirit with her exquisite
face, devoid of expression. Following the stultifying Victorian
industrial and military era, the beguiling femininity of the 'Belle
Epoque' presented a mysterious, enhancing, feminine platform, for
line, colour and composition.
He turned to motifs from nature, flowers and plants in the throes
of life and death. The evolution of creation is captured in his
evocative, energetic and growth enhancing ensembles. The creatures
that live in the earthy, damp patches of the garden, and the gossamer
winged insects that flutter at night under the glow of lights, provided
a fascinating realm for his imagination. Sea creatures and insects
poiseprecariously on the edgeof the elements and dragonflies, wasps
and beetles hover over jewelled flowers and ferque was influenced
by both European and Asian decorative arts, most notably the Oriental
and Persian styles. Much of his preoccupation with natural beings
stemmed from a curiosity for flora and fauna which he portrayed
in the miniscule detail practised in the art of Eastern cultures.
He perfected the complicated enamelling technique, 'plique a jour'
which is seen to perfection on the'dragonfly corsage ornament' an
astonishing combination of a female figure with delicate blue-green
wings, emerging chrysalis-like from the jaws of the insect. The
extraordinary 'wasp pin' in the Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen
and the grasshopper tiara and choker from the Gulbenkian Collection
are among his most successful insect-inspired works. He had a genius
for composition and could transform an original concept and theme
into a new dimension. He mixed intrinsically valueless materials
like enamels, glass, horn and ivory with precious and semi precious
gems, creating contrasts and tactile transformations of the most
interesting kind. His work had a life and energy of its own that
forever changed the perceptions of artists in their search for the
unusual and fantastic.
In 1885, on purchasing the ateliers of jeweller Jules Destape in
Paris, he established the company of 'R. Lalique'. Between 1895
and the end of the century he entered upon his period of artistic
maturity in jewellery, reaching a peak of perfection by the 1900
'Exposition Universelle in Paris'. The company changed addresses
many times, until in 1936 its permanent home was established on
Rue Royale.
Lalique became
fascinated with glass by the 1890's and from that time on began
to incorporate moulded glass motifs into his jewellery. Drawing
on the contemporary art movement in France, Lalique sometimes worked
with 'pate de verre' and later developed his own special glass,
a 'demicristal', sparkling, yet malleable. Economy of line and the
Japanese reverence for nature were a great influence. He was a master
of atmosphere and could create the seasons, sunsets, icy stillness
of winter and the buds of spring. His butterflies, moths, birds
of prey were all persistent images in Japanese decorative arts and
many of Lalique's moody, supernatural portraits and awesome effigies
of nature are a reflection of this influence.
In 1909 Lalique
turned his talents and curiosity to the artistic techiques of glass
production. His fascination for this material led him into a second
life of exploration, at first studying the procedures of glass-making,
researching the methods used in melting, molding, blowing and sculpting
and then perfecting his craft. During the 1920's and '30s he created
works on a monumental scale, in particular, the huge, fifteen metre
high fountain, constructed in 1925 for the 'Exposition des Arts
Decoratifs' called 'Sources of France'. In 1932 he completed the
decoration of the beautiful Church of St Matthew in the town of
St. Helier, Jersey, in the Channel Isles, among Y Other unusual
and imense projects.
Today, this legacy of Rene Lalique is continued on in the creative
hands of his granddaughter, Marie Claude, who perpetuates the traditions
of her lineage but infuses her own special sensitivity to nature
and innovation in her designs. She has been Chairman and Designer
of the company since 1977 and has witnessed a period of great development
and expansion.
Michel Iltis, Marketing and Sales Manager and Commercial Director
of Lalique, who joined the firm in 1987 at the invitation of the
Vice Chairman, points out the current success of the company in
economic terms, "We have improved our turnover of 25 million
dollars in 1987 to 70 million dollars in 1991. This is a success
story that has been given public recognition by the French 'Business
Awards'. We are ranked at number thirteen in the development of
our turnover and results, out of a select number of'one hundred'
in France, and are placed at number one in the luxury business industry."
Michel Iltis displays an obvious pride in the company's achievement
and an unguarded enthusiasm and love for its strikingly beautiful
product. He attributes success to two important factors, "you
have to be creative to get an interest from the market and you must
develop communication. It is essential that the public and the press
know what we are doing, we must establish both the interest and
the demand. Without communication - you have nothing."
The company employs a public relations network of people around
the world with Danielle Escher in charge of the Paris office. "I
do all of the business from Paris, if we are having an exhibition
or launching a new range, I organise a press conference and the
information is passed on to the public."
Lalique keeps
in touch with a wide audience of people through the medium of television
and the mode of sport. In 1987 they established the internationally
acclaimed 'Trophee Lalique' designed to promote excellence in the
art of figure skating.
Sponsorship of this major competition has allowed Lalique to develop
an image that communicates appropriately to a youthful market and
encourages a new generation of Lalique collectors. The fifth annual
Trophee Lalique took place on November 8-10,1991 in Albertville,
as the official pre-Olympic trials for the 1992 Winter Games.
Michel points
out the importance of such an event because it focuses international
attention on the competition which attracts skaters from all around
the world. He draws strong parallels between the glossy coolness
of the ice and the purityof crystal, "the grace of the skater
and the delicacy of a Lalique figurine have much in common."
The'fellowships'that Lalique provide, give many new skaters the
opportunity to participate at tournament level.
"We are basically a cultural company because of our past and
we want to prove that we can mix culture with sport. We also sponsor
other sporting institutions such as football and rugby."
Three years prior to Albertville, the Winter Olympic Committee approached
Lalique to inquire if they would be in a position to create the
Olympic medals. "it was an honour to be invited to undertake
such a task and a great challenge to combine crystal and metal.
The result was a very special design by Mme Lalique."
Marie Claude Lalique has enormous sensitivity for the material with
which she works and an instinctive appreciation of nature. She sculpts
her designs in soft mallebale 'plasticine', enabling her to understand
and control the three dimensional quality of the object. Her highly
cultivated sense of movement is transferred to inanimate objects
giving them zest and vibrancy.
Danielle Escher
believes that Mme Lalique has "an innate sense of crystal,
a natural feel for a material that is in her blood. It is a spirit
of design that you do not learn, it is just present in some people
and absent in others. She is an artist and expresses herself in
whichever man-
ner she wants."
Marie Claude's broad abilities with design include an intrinsic
flair forjewellery, a natural outcome of the grand legacy of her
grandfather. She delights in the smooth and coarse contrast of crystal
and metal, creating configurations of mass and space, highlighted
by the clarity and intensity of colour. She has a unique talent
for combining stunning pigments with clear crystal to produce lively
and exhilarating pieces.
Michel Iltis
explains their forthcoming venture, which will see the introduction
of exciting new materials. "Our jewellery will be a combination
of rhodium and crystal. Rhodium is the most precious and rarest
metal in the world, and is far more expensive than gold. There are
very few mines being worked and the most important is probably the
most inaccessible, as it is situated in Iraq. We selected rhodium
because of its rare qualities and the belief that it will combine
with crystal to produce quite remarkable compositions. We will design
and construct display units to ensure maximum visual access to our
customers in our boutiques and in other selected shops."
Danielle reminds
us that Rene Lalique was both admired and emulated by his peers.
"All the famous names in jewellery, Tiffany, Boucheron, Cartier,
Van Cleef, were all inspired by this man and admit that he was the
father of the modern jewellery movement. He invented all the intricate
techniques of workmanship and created such imaginative designs that
the whole world copied him. His technical skills were so unique
that nobody, even today, can reproduce one of his pieces. He had
his own secret processes of production."
Michel litis believes that Lalique has maintained its stable position
on the world market despite tough economic times because it is constantly
on the move. "We employ a strategy of 'winners', which means
that we are doing what we always do but we do more of it. "
Lalique present an annual showing of their new creations to buyers
from around the world. This gives the designers the opportunity
to test the market with their new ideas, gaining valuable information
from the purchasers reaction to the range.
The special
links that Rene Lalique adopted in his association with perfume
companies, designing aesthetic bottles to display distinctive fragrances,
are retained today, by Marie Claude. This tradition was inaugurated
by Francois Coty in 1905 who invited Rene to put his splendid creative
talents and technical skills at the disposal of the perfume industry.
Early this century, Rene Lalique designed exquisite perfume bottles
for Coty, d'Orsay, Houbigant and Worth, among many others. The technological
and commercial revolution which Rene Lalique initiated was in line
with the precepts of Art Nouveau, which sought to reconcile Art
with industry.
Marc Lalique's
celebrate dailiance with the perfume of Nina Ricci from the early
1940's, saw the superb fragrances of Robert Ricci, displayed in
splendid, romantic, perfume bottles that bore all the characteristics
of miniature works of art. Marc Lalique's fabulous feel for crystal
and its inherent possibilities was displayed many times in his marvellous
capacity to demonstrate smooth and angular contrasts and chiaroscuro
in clear and frosted glass.
In 1945, Marc
took charge of the family business and remodelled the Wingen-sur-Moder
factory in Alsace, which had sustained heavy damage during the war.
At that time, Marc made full use of his skills as a glassmaker,
trained new craftsmen and replaced glass with crystal. An enormous,
geometrically shaped crystal chandelier designed by Marc for the
1951 Paris 'Art of Glass' exhibition held at the 'Musee des Arts
Decoratifs', hangs today with a watchful eye across the expanse
of over 250 pieces of his father's Lyorks, on display in his retrospective
exhibition.
Michel Iltis confirms that the tradition of designing perfume bottles
continues. "Often we are approached by a big name company to
design their bottles. We always ask them what they want, what theme
and generally the ideas that they have in mind. We explain that
it is our policy to have complete control over the design once an
agreement has been reached, to avoid problems that can arise with
clients who keep changing their minds. We then ask Mme Lalique if
she will design something special for this label. Sometimes she
accepts the commission and sometimes she refuses. To produce a piece
that is economical a cornpany must be prepared for a minimum of
1500 articles."
Monsieur Michel Iltis views the future of the firm with a great
deal of anticipation and looks forward to new and exciting ventures
in the nineties. He mentions the probability that Lalique will produce
its own perfume label , operating under a separate division. The
creative talents of Lalique continue with the launch of a line of
'scarves' in the tradition of Rene Lalique who produced dynamic
and fabulous motifs and a new line of china from the recently purchased
Limoges factory.
This vital family company has retained its individuality and imaginative
spirit for over a hundred years, relinquishing none of its traditions
in the pursuit of enduring quality, innovative design and classical
style. Lalique has successfully continued to produce legendary French
crystal for three generations, adapting and expanding its interests
across new international boundaries around the globe.
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