 |
Los
Angeles designer Amir has a passion for fashion- bespoke that is.
The apothesis
of style, the late Cary Grant would periodically stroll into the
chic boutique off Mulholland Drive to augment his colourful collection
of cashmere socks. Another of the many Hollywood hierarchy to frequent
the tiny Bel-Air boutique was a certain Governor Reagan who proceeded
to the White House as one of the most stylish Presidents since John
F. Kennedy. Sophia Loren and Liza Minnelli developed a penchant
for the sensual cashmere and alpaca sweaters on display whilst French
Vogue were so impressed with the creative force behind the store
that they christened him a 'Renaissance designer' and Amir remains
the most exclusive of mens' courturiers.
Cut to an advertisement
which appeared on American television recently, depicting an impeccably
dressed man amidst a golden field of wheat. His darkly handsome
features gazed toward a distant place while his voice, fittingly
urbane and exotically accented, recollected the wisdom of his father
who advised when you have a dream, you must first see it and then
it will be realised. Truly a Field of Dreams, Costner style.
If the heartfelt
simplicity and elegance of this evocative advertisement echo Amir's
philosophy of timeless design and a fashion sensibility where less
is undeniably more, the face and voice depicted are the embodiment
of the Amir style for they belong to the man himself.
In person, his
former model's looks are complemented by an active intelligence
and a cosmopolitan charm. "It is the American Dream",
he says, explaining the advertisement's pointed sentiment. "When
I was just starting my career, I saw myself standing in the White
House, I saw all the things that have happened and I worked hard
and these things did happen. I did it and my message is that if
I could do it, anyone could do it".
If his dreams
kept him going, it was a shrewd business acumen that realised his
aspirations. Some years ago, Amir saw an opportunity to improve
his business when he read of an impending visit by the Sultan of
Brunei, in all the world, the man least lacking in spending money.
In recognition of the Sultan's wife's particular fondness for the
colour pink, Amir dispatched a pink satin-covered basket laden with
dozens of pink tulips. In response to this novel gesture of welcome,
an entourage headed by the Sultan's brother arrived on Amir's doorstep
the very next day. The royal was so taken by Amir's designs that
less than two hours later, the limousine convoy had been loaded
and Amir was left to count just under two hundred thousand dollars
in crisp hundred dollar notes.
Sharing Amir's
love of the grand gesture, the Sultan also chose pink as the theme
for a gift to his wife. In this instance however, pink came in the
form of a palace, the Pink Palace, as the Beverly Hills Hotel is
affectionately known throughout the world. The Sultan subsequently
invited Amir to establish a showroom in the Hotel's exclusive shopping
promenade. Amir not only relocated, he designed the intimate space
himself incorporating marble floors, crystal chandeliers, antique
tables and Persian rugs to reflect the very image of the store's
'understated elegance' motto. Though this small, discreet showroom
is currently the sole outlet of Amir clothing throughout the world,
it has managed to generate sales of twelve million dollars last
year alone.
The thirty-five
year old entrepreneur understands his clientele only too well as
he explains. "Every major department store in the world, including
Harrods, has wanted to distribute Amir but I don't think Cary Grant,
when he was alive, would want to go to a department store to shop,
nor Prince Charles or former President Reagan. Bel-Air is a very
secluded, exclusive centre with the finest of the world's produce
and as such is a perfect place for Amir".
Bel-Air is also
one of the more genteel quarters of Los Angeles which itself is
the undeniable capital of the world's entertainment industry, headquarters
to a vast music recording industry and home or stopping off point
for most of Fortune magazine's wealthiest 500, a fact not lost on
Amir.
"We researched
these things thoroughly and then designed our very exclusive showroom
with the aim of creating a maison type of store, as was the House
of Dior or Chanel in the 1940s. It is very much on a one to one
basis. We have clients who send their private jets, we keep updated
profiles on all our clients, and our master tailors fly to them
- anywhere in the world. So, I've made it convenient for them to
shop", he concludes with some understatement.
The legendary
name of Chanel is again invoked during discussion of influences
or, rather, inspirations. "Very classical, very elegant...the
fashion does not overpower the wearer. It gives harmony and balance
to create a look that is chic but not overdone". Comparisons
with other mens' designers are, however, quickly dismissed. "The
difference between Amir and people like Zegna and Armani is that
Amir is not for the mass market. We cater to the powerbrokers, the
Heads of State, Industrialists, the Hollywood aristocracy; it is
a very elite clientele, in a sense the Kings and Queens of today".
As self-appointed
royal couturier, Amir maintains the most exacting of standards.
In a seemingly unorthodox move, he established his factory half
way across the globe in Florence, the former centre of the Renaissance.
Over the years he has amassed what he likes to call his 'army' of
master craftsmen, some four hundred in all, who painstakingly hand
finish his designs using age old tailoring skills. The result of
this collective effort is a mere twelve suits, each exquisitely
finished, at each day's end.
Whether suits,
shirts of the finest Egyptian cottons, jackets in supple leathers
or cardigans and sweaters in the softest cashmere and alpaca, the
attention to detail never falters. "You still have to go to
the tiny Italian villages where the women weave the cashmere by
hand. Then you take this material to the factory and cut it the
right way and create the sweaters that melt at the touch. This is
the work you must do and I take pride in doing it, and I believe
that when you take pride in what you do everything else falls into
place".
A nearby tie
that I had been admiring catches his own eye. "This is my trademark
all over the world but to arrive at this simplicity...each tie takes
two and a half days to make and is the result of six months work.
It is not an easy task to create a finished garment unlike any in
the world but our clients appreciate this and the response has been
tremendous. You see, once they become buyers of Amir they become
addicted because the consistency of quality is the one enduring
principle".
The beautiful
strip of silk is offered for closer inspection. "If you feel
our garments you can appreciate the difference". The difference
goes far beyond the superior sensual properties of the fabric. His
ties, for instance, are produced more like series of limited edition
lithographs than clothing accessories. The fabrics are naturally
designed exclusively for and by Amir and each fabric design yields
only twelve ties which bear their individual number beside the Amir
signature. Moreover, each tie is made specifically for a particular
shirt which in turn is made for a certain suit, which comes with
matching shoes and, of course, the correct belt. "They are
all original, there is only one set, they are unique", he emphasises
and indeed each suit comes with its particular printed biography
listing, not only the type of fabric used, but its origins, the
name of the tailor who cut it, information on the buttons and lining,
emphasising the uniqueness of each garment.
"For me",
he elaborates, "Every client has original and challenging qualities
and needs and we create a look for them from scratch. It's not something
you can come in and pick off a rack. Rather than someone buying
three or four jackets I'd prefer if they purchased just one suit
with the matching shirt, the shoes, ties, handkerchief. It is very
important to dress the part you choose in life, especially in a
business sense, but there's no need to be severe", he stresses.
"When we
assisted President Reagan before he ran for the Presidency, he had
to appear conservative, of course, but also not too conservative;
rather exciting! It had to look natural". In an age of media
image politics it seems Reagan chose his maker wisely. Another politician
to recognise the benefits of expert sartorial advice was Los Angeles
Mayor Tom Bradley who, during that city's 1984 Summer Olympics,
appointed Amir as official designer.
"Mayor
Bradley is a very big man", explains Amir, "But after
selecting the appropriate colours and cut of clothes even he looks
understated". Bradley was also impressed and asked Amir to
design a wardrobe, to fulfill the dress protocol on his year's social
calendar, for which he was honoured by the Mens' Fashion Association
of America with a prestigious Image Award.
The Amir touch
can be found from the White House to the corporate boardrooms of
Europe, Japan and America. It can be seen on the likes of composer
Andrew Lloyd Webber and singing idol Julio Iglesias; it is behind
the style of the diplomatic power-broker Henry Kissinger and the
debonair actor Tony Curtis.
Dedicated to
meeting a client's specific needs, Amir is indeed the consummate
image maker. With an aristocratic pedigree, the Iranian born Amir
Bahadori has simplified even his own name to a single, stylish moniker.
His private schooling in Switzerland has given him both an understanding
of an a place within the elite international milieu. His years as
a top model on the European catwalks for the likes of Armani and
Valentino, saw him surrounded by style and fashion of superlative
quality while his studies at the renowned Institute of Fashion in
Florence harnessed his creative talents and his passion for his
adopted homeland, with his meteoric rise to the prestigious position
he holds today.
"California",
he intones, "over the past few years has had quite an influence
on the styles emerging in Europe and I think the casual attitude
of California has created a bigger market than ever before".
It is a market Amir the businessman has made a concession to with
his design of Amir jeans, the only Amir product to be produced in
significant quantities. "You can still look impeccably chic",
he assures, "If you team them with, say a hand stitched suede
jacket and a cashmere poloneck pullover". Naturally!
Another obvious
market for so successful a designer is the more adventurous and
lucrative market of womens' fashion and Amir is in the process of
creating a collection of womens' clothes. "You can have great
sketches", he explains, "But it's very difficult to translate
the quality. Only recently have I been able to put together a team
of master tailors to create a collection for women. "But",
he insists, perhaps in reverence to his beloved Chanel, "It's
important for me to create a style that will endure for some years".
Though Amir
invests ever more of his hours in the creation of his timeless designs
he still manages time for the occasional game of polo where he no
doubt matches it on the field with many of his expert clients. The
athletic designer is also a frequent visitor to the Pink Palace's
tennis courts where he indulges a recently acquired passion and
gives the former Olympic-playing coach a strenuous workout.
In the tradition
of the successful immigrant, Amir also finds the time to show his
appreciation for the adopted country that helped foster his success,
from his involvement in the government's television campaign against
drugs to his instigation of a most unusual award at the University
of California's School of Business and Management. For the past
six years, the selected male and female graduates receive for their
contribution to civic life, a complete Amir wardrobe to assist their
translation from campus to corporate living.
As much as anything
else, the award is symbolic of the creativity that has enabled this
young man to establish an internationally acclaimed organisation.
Amir is more dismissive of his success. "Fashion was in my
blood, it came naturally. It sounds funny but when I was ten to
twelve I refused to let my mother do any shopping for me and I always
bought classical clothes", he recollects and then laughingly
adds, "I think maybe it's because I have a very old soul".
|
|