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Carrera
Y Carrera craftsmen are sculptors who cast in gold with imagination
and skill
In the Spanish
capital the Carrera family is sculpting jewels of distinction. Since
1885 it has been building statuesque collections of a sculptural
finesse that is Carrera Y Carrera's distinguishing mark. The exquisitely
carved finery of the company which bears the family name evokes
the wonder and the splendour of its mythological origins and brings
to the most classical images a style that is uniquely and identifiably
its own.
It was the Carrera
family who brought the first lapidary workshop to Spain in the late
1800s. so the Spaniards were introduced to the art of professionally
cutting, polishing and engraving precious stones by a young Carrera
who learnt the beautiful lapidary craft in Paris. With no sons of
his own, this Carrera decided to take on a nephew as apprentice
and later this nephew's brother. As the workshop grew so too did
its renown, and the pioneering role of the Carreras in the painstaking
art of setting gems became widely acclaimed.
By the 1970's
six Carreras were working in the jewellery trade. Two young family
members decided to weld their creativity, experience and knowledge
of the market. Carrera Y Carrera, SA was conceived from their union
and into it was channelled nearly one hundred years' learning in
the trade.
Already the
list of prizes and distinctions awarded to the company is impressive.
They range from gold medals for Export awarded by the Chamber of
Commerce in 1977, 1983, 1984 and 1985 and first prize at the Town
Hall, Madrid in 1987, 1988 and 1989, to international prizes such
as the "IV International Asia Award" in 1984, a Kaneko
Trophy in Japan in the same year and First Prizes, Jewellery and
Silversmith "Eurodesign" and " Goldsmith Design"
at the 1985 Basel Fair. In 1989 Carrera Y Carrera even rated a special
mention from the then US President, Ronald Reagan.
Carrera Y Carrera
has grown exponentially since its inception. Jewels are designed,
manufactured and shipped for distribution from the headquarters
and factory-workshop in Madrid. Its jewellery creations are available
through exclusive distributors in countries around the globe including
America, Canada, the United Kingdom, Europe, Japan, Saudi Arabia,
the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait and even Australia. Quality is
guaranteed as attested by the guarantee card which accompanies every
item sold.
Carrera Y Carrera's
work draws on a rich cultural heritage. The Greeks whose influence
on the company's work is not merely thematic, understood long ago
that creating jewellery, can be a sculptural art. Greek jewellers
recognised in gold a ductile material which they, like the Egyptians
and Mesopotamians before them, worked into a magnificent array of
shapes.
The Phoenicians,
well apprenticed by the Egyptians, colonised Spain about 1000BC
leaving the famous Aliseda Treasure to testify to their craftsmanship
and later, between about 900 and 600 BC, Celts, and Greeks settled
there. Four hundred years on Spain was conquered by the Romans and
it became a leading province of the Roman Empire. The jewellery
the Romans brought with them tended to be more splendid and heavy
than was Greek jewellery, bedecked with gems rather than finely
sculpted or, like the Celtic legacy, embellished with highly stylized
design motifs. They were not the last invaders to adorn the Peninsula
- the barbarian Visigoths are remembered for their liberal use of
gold, pearl and sapphires. So even in pre-Colombian days, before
Spanish conquerors sought gold in the land of the Aztecs of Mexico
and the Incas of Peru, and looted a goldmine of emeralds as well,
Spain was home to a cultural variety which is resplendent in the
jewels uncovered from its treasure trove.
Carrera Y Carrera
craftsmen are sculptors who cast in gold with imagination and skill.
They employ a range of materials for their work: gold, pearls, emeralds
and diamonds sit side-by-side with turquoise, rubies and sapphire.
Irregularly shaped fresh-water pearls form heads of hair, voluminous
capes, feather head-dresses and flighty wings. The results are distinctive
for their delicacy and elegance as well as for their magnificent
textures. Satin finish gold, a rare and alluring technique, highlights
sinuous curves and brings enriching contrast to brightly polished
gold and brilliant gems. Classical and traditional images, nature
and the human form, are evoked with inspired originality. Although
heavily derivative of some of the world's most incredible myths
and literary and artistic creations, the work of Carrera Y Carrera
is stylistically consistent and distinctively contemporary.
The free-flowing
designs of recent collections are reminiscent of fin-de-siecle Art
Nouveau but invested with new vigour are more precious still. The
Art Nouveau motif - pre-Raphaelite woman with voluminous flowing
hair, so imaginatively rendered by Lalique - is featured by Carrera
Y Carrera. She wears a diamond on her forehead and her polished
golden locks envelope a satin finish face and arm adorned with ruby
bracelet.
As in Art Nouveau,
the world of flora and fauna is a dominant theme but languid reptiles
and glaucous beasts are replaced with dynamic depiction of nature
in all its rhythmic force. In the Carrera Y Carrera menagerie horses
with flowing polished golden manes neigh, inlaid leopards prowl,
ruby-eyed jaguars stalk, athletic pumas pounce and lions roar through
emerald grass, while gold and silver swans glide gracefully, diamond
studded eagles prey, and dolphins swirl into golden rings. Jeanne
Toussaint's passion for transforming the feline world into precious
jewels is echoed in this animal kingdom, bringing to mind the famous
Cartier golden panther, flecked with black enamel and sprawling
in luxuriant ease on a 90 carat cabochon emerald, bought by the
Duke of Windsor and worn by his wife, the Duchess.
For Carrera
Y Carrera animals span the ages, the horse is a prime example. From
Pegasus to modern day horse racing, in the expressive jaws and dynamic
movement, in the C-shaped horseshoe, lies the motif for Carrera
Y Carrera's craft.
Animals and
insects, linked with deep magical and superstitious beliefs since
the earliest times in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, have been
portrayed in jewellery often worn for religious purposes or to ward
off evil spirits. Carrera Y Carrera includes a range of religious
motifs in its exquisite collections which feature dancing cherubim,
satin finish golden innocents with plump faces and brightly polished
golden hair, diamond studded harps and lyres, and golden angels
with diamond encrusted silver wings.
All-time literary
favourites from Shakespeare to the Brothers Grimm and Walt Disney
populate Carrera Y Carrera collections, with Romeo and Juliet and
Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs fashioned in gold, pearl and diamonds.
Images from Victorian and Renaissance art are perfectly cast. The
primitive beauty of the American-Indian is suggested in an elaborate
pearl-feathered head-dress, but it is in the biblical and mythological
figures of classical antiquity that the brilliant lustre of the
sculptors imagination fully emerges.
The statuesque
Moses of Carrera Y Carrera's imagination is a commanding figure,
cast in gold and adorned with rich red rubies suggesting the blood-red
Nile, variegated pearl reflecting the flickering burning bush, and
diamond source of his fantastic power. Mounted on turquoise, colour
of the miraculous water which flowed from a desert rock, Moses carries
a golden staff, instrument of power, his hand is outstretched to
part the waters which threaten the Israelites' safe passage. A diamond
encrusted snake slithers around his feet. Exodus is evoked in this
exquisite sculpture, which tells the story of the shepherds crook,
'sign of wonder', with which God empowered Moses at the burning
bush and promised to deliver Israel from the oppression of Egypt.
From the Greek
pantheon and the pages of Homer, comes a collection of divinities
and mythological personages. A superbly carved golden Icarus in
flight, hair adrift and mouth open, cries out as his pearly wings
melt with the heat of the sun. An ornate Leda is swathed in dazzling
white pearl. The wings of Zeus, a diamond encrusted, ruby-eyed golden
swan, hold her tightly. so the god of the luminous ether seduced
Tyndarcus' wife, deity of night, in a pool of dazzling whiteness.
On Leda's cloak the diamond-studded winged faces of Zeus' children,
Helen and Pollox, are superbly arranged with diamond, ruby and emerald
flowers. A winged satin finish golden Pegasus, messenger of the
gods, moves swiftly with flying polished gold mane and tail, and
brightly polished hooves. Perhaps he ascends Olympus to carry Zeus'
thunderbolts. The Roman pantheon conceives Venus, goddess of beauty
and love, reflected in ecstasy - in gold, pearls and diamonds. A
slender Minerva, goddess of Wisdom, is carved and adorned with gems.
The sculptural
quality which distinguishes Carrera Y Carrera jewellery has also
been integrated into designs for watches. Cartier, Mellerio, Mauboissin,
Gubelin and Boucheron proved decades ago that the watchband and
timepiece could be an elaborately decorative jewel, but never before
has a wrist watch been conceived of as a sculpture. Carrera Y Carrera's
new collection named "It's Time for Art" demonstrates
its conviction that the traditional concept of a watch can evolve.
Like many of Carrera Y Carrera's creations, the designs for this
series of watches are inspired by two strong thematic influences:
animals and the human body. Horse, eagle and jaguar heads, lithe-bodied
pumas and leopards or delicate hands and erotic male and female
silhouettes are elegantly carved around the watchface.
Every watch
in this collection, created using the latest in Swiss technology
- is manufactured in 18 carat gold. The watch box averages 25-30
grams of gold and each unit is carved and treated as a precious
jewel by fine craftsmen. Distinctive design elements include black
enamel to depict leopard skin spots, diamonds for the eyes and to
indicate time and shining gold watch dials as well as the original
mother-of-pearl and black enamel faces. Watchbands complement the
designs in traditional leather from rich rust hues through to midnight
or gold bracelets sometimes adorned with diamonds or pearls.
The art of steel
engraving used for Carrera Y Carrera's watch making and developed
after many years of research is exclusive to the company. Precision
workmanship edges the steel watchface with intricately detailed
engraved figures and a thick sapphire glass guarantees that the
watch is hard wearing and waterproof.
Carrera Y Carrera's
timepiece charts the ages. Dexterous craftsmanship embellishes techniques
and folklore dating back to classical antiquity with all the wizardry
of modern technology. A golden watchface adorned with precious and
semi-precious stones reflects diverse cultural traditions spanning
centuries, each gem representing an icon in the jeweller's fertile
imagination. As the delicately carved hands dance to Greenwich time,
Carrera Y Carrera are sculpting a timeless form of art.
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