In
a second story drawing room high above the illustrious plaza of
the Place Vendome, a museum of remarkable human experience unfolds
amist decor reflecting all the opulence of a past French tradition.
For over two hundred years, the House of Chaumet has borne witness
to some of the most colourful events in France's history. It was
here in the oldest salon in the Place Vendome, under the fanciful
canopy of a ceiling fresco, that Napoleon III proposed to Eugenie
de Montijo.
In less fortuitous
circumstances the young Polish countess, Delphine Potoka watched
as her dear friend Frederic Chopin took his dying breath to the
strains of Mozart's Requiem playing solemnly at the foot of his
bed. But the former Hotel Baudert de Saint James also houses a museum
more priceless than any historical anecode - the Musee de Maison.
Chaumet accommodates
two hundred years of history in Haute-Joaillerie.
"To
create is also to interpret the style of the times. This is precisely
the spirit of Chaumet-to be in tune with the times. In this spirit,
there is the need to return to the essential,a drive to discover
a personal truth.Jewelry is no longer simply a recognizable symbol,it
is also an expression of inner truth. Style is more simple,more
elegant and at the same time more personal.Inner harmony is reflected
in the purity of form.
It
is to have the freedom to dare while knowing how to evoke beauty.It
is to catch the eye,and bring dreams to life.It is to let jewelry
capture the imagination."-
Pierre
Haquet
Since 1780,
the House of Chaumet has conceived and executed jewellery pieces
for the highest courts of Europe and beyond. The Chaumet museum
and archives houses sketches and exact replicas to the last diamond
and fine pearl of the most exquisite parures, crowns and decorative
pieces ever created. They serve as a permanent record of opulent
design and in a more practical sense, were held in reserve should
the dazzling ruby and diamond parure of Napoleon I's wife, the Arch-Duchess
of Austria, be held to ransom.
It was to Chaumet,
that Queen Victoria sent drawings in her own hand of designs that
the Chaumet craftsmen would execute to her most stringent directive,
and it was the imagination and design of Chaumet that the Maharajah
of Kapurtala commissioned to create a magnificent dress sword of
diamonds and rubies in 1900. Today, a Chaumet client can commission
any design from this sparking collection of two centuries of jewellery
art should they desire a tangible link to past glory.
The Chaumet
tradition of Haunte-Joaillerie began with Etienne Nitot in 1780
on the Rue St. Honore who was accorded the privilege of creating
the consular sword set with the Crown Jewel of France - the 140
karat Regent diamond. Upon his death, Nitot's son sold the business
to the shop foreman, Fossin, creating a tradition that endures today
where a relinquishing shop foreman will not leave his post until
his successor has been named and sufficiently inaugurated into his
duties. Fossin maintained the imperial ties as jeweller to the Royal
Family under Louis-Phillipe, but it was his son Jules who broke
with the trend and created a theme of naturalism in his pieces;
presenting leaves, flora and branches of gold, platinum and priceless
gems whilst continuing to pay reverence to the prevailing aesthetic.
This motif continues to mark the Chaumet collections to the present
day and the 'Renaissance' collection bids considerable homage to
natural bounty and harmony.
"A
jewel creates its own history,and even lodges within the pages of
history itself. A gift of jewelry is a celebration of joy mixed
with tenderness, an affair of the heart.Jewelry is a symbolic representation
of the most beautiful of words. It is a matter of style that reflects
the spirit of the times-jewels recount the most important moments
in a woman's life.They evoke the happiness of an evening, the passion
of a summer...they speak of yesterday, of tomorrow and, most of
all, of today".
Pierre
Haquet
Prosper Morel
took the reigns of Chaumet in 1862, to be succeded by his son-in-law
Chaumet, the man responsible for its present day incarnation, moving
the premises to 12 Place Vendome. It was Joseph Chaumet who challenged
prevailing ideas of bulky, overly-decorative ornaments, transforming
artistic interpretation into reality as he married purity of design
with the singularly powerful hues of the stones. Joseph Chaumet
refined the art of jewellery bestowing upon his pieces a sincerity
previously overshadowed by complex forms. He instituted another
of the rigorously observed Chaumet traditions which demands that
from conception of an idea to the final polishing, all work must
be performed in the Chaumet workshops on the Place Vendome. Joseph
Chaumet, supported by his succeeding generations, Marcel, and later
Jacques and Pierre, also affected many technical innovations and
procedures in addition to his revolutions in design, showcasing
the naturalist element of the creative conception in pieces that
had benefitted enormously from improvements in the crafting technique.
After undergoing
a 'Renaissance' in 1989 reflected in the revamped design of the
premises and in the naming of their new collection of Haute-Joaillerie
under the auspices of ex-Comite Colbert MD Jean Bergeron, since
April 1993 Pierre Haquet, ex-Managing Director of Cartier International
for over ten years has been charged with the task of securing the
future direction of Chaumet by owner's Investcorp .
"Luxury
lives-jewels are alive! Thy speak -they put spirit in our step.
At Chaumet, our jewelers find the expression for our jewelry within
culture itself. Luxury and culture are intrinsically entwined. And
,like culture itself, luxury bears witness to its time".-
Pierre
Haquet.
It is the artist's
mark however, of this beautiful organisation in which lies the difference.
Whilst other companies commonly undergo efficacious upheavals and
do not weather well the tides of commercial fortune, Chaumet gracefully
experiences a 'renaissance'. When you are fortunate enough to be
sitting beside the lavish velvet-draped desks admiring these pieces
of wearable art, it is only then that you realize that the beauty
of French traditon never waned, it merely awaited the renaissance
of Chaumet.
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