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"If
one studies the history of mankind closely one discovers that our
contemporary attitude to diamonds or other such precious gems, comes
in fact from the earliest attitudes towards power and the expression
of it,"
Nabil explains,
delighted to elaborate. "First there was the stick by which
one man asserted his authority over another. This gave way to the
sceptre; to which were added the feathers and hides from the spoils
of hunting, making them symbols of the power and strength of those
who had acquired them. Much later the diamond was added to the sceptre,
and so began the association as I see it between precious stones
- diamonds in particular, and the outward display or demonstration
of power; particularly in a financial sense today.
"What fascinates
me about diamonds is that they exude a very real sense of power
for the individual who possess them (perhaps because of their intrinsic
worth)" he continues. "As a jeweller you in turn pass
this power on to the next person, and so it goes on, sometimes from
generation to generation. There is an eternal power related to stones
such as diamonds because they will outlive us all. There is an immortality
attached to the entire procedure of buying or acquiring the biggest
and best quality stones available. It's as though you are passing
on a piece of yourself to the next generation."
The Tabbah tradition
for dealing in some of the most magnificent precious stones goes
back over two centuries, to 1862 when Y. Tabbah opened his first
jewellery store in Lebanon. The roots of the family, and its involvement
in dealing with quality products however, stem back a further four
hundred years and the opening up of trade-links between Asia Minor,
Europe and the Far East. Initially, involved in the highly specialised
craft of silk weaving, the forefathers of today's Tabbah empire
expanded into the engraving of precious metals when France became
the recognised centre of silk weaving.
"Not many
people realise this, but originally we are from Greece," says
Nabil. "My ancestors actually settled in Turkey around 1625,
and it was then that the family name was changed to Tabbah; a name
which actually means a Printer. The name came about because
as a family our concern was mainly in the printing of silk, and
it made sense that they should have adopted this name at that time.
Later the family moved again, this time to Lebanon. It was here
that we first began what is now our major business; making exquisite
jewellery from the very best materials available."
Exquisite certainly,
inexpensive rarely. One major Tabbah acquisition, an undisclosed
stone bought at the Basel Jewellery Fair sold recently for $A 18
million. Price however, is not a factor that would have high priority
amongst the typical Tabbah customer; customers which over the years
have included all the Royal families of the Middle East, Princess
Noura Bint Faycal of the Royal Family of Saudi Arabia, Princess
Caroline of Monaco, and a host of the world's most distinguished
and successful industrialists, financiers and politicians. According
to Nabil Tabbah, quality is the single most important concern of
his clients.
"We have
a policy of not discussing our clients," explains Nabil with
maximum discretion. "This is because they have the right to
their privacy, and also because when I design a piece specifically
for them I do it for them. It is their personality I am responding
to when I look at the stone and conceive of the final product. In
this way I can tell you that we have clients who are generations
old; that is their grandparents, and in some cases their great grandparents
have been coming to us perhaps from the time we opened."
It says something
about the timelessness of the Tabbah style that even after two generations
clients have been known to come back to them to have a particular
creation reset in the original design, or ever so slightly variated.
"There
is never a point at which one stops developing or refining a design
or style," says Nabil confidently. "Our aim has always
been to give the client something of value that will not date quickly
because it is too fashionable or because it no longer serves a useful
purpose. One does not learn taste, all one learn is design. For
me the designs I create say Tabbah and people respond to this in
their individual manner. That is the beauty of working with precious
stones, and jewellery in general, that there is an emotional element
attached to every purchase a client makes. Every purchase is therefore
different, and every client will bring a different appreciation
and understanding to your designs. The Americans buy something because
they like what the are shown. Those from the Middle East buy because
they know the value of the piece. And those from the Far East tend
to buy for show. Knowing this then helps you deal with different
clients, and in its own way keeps you fresh in terms of your creativity."
While the stone or stones Nabil is working with at the particular
time influence to a degree, the style of the design possible, he
stresses that for him creative inspiration comes from an understanding
of the client. It is in discussions with the individual client that
Nabil says he gets the feel for the motivation that instigated the
decision to buy Tabbah. A man buying a Tabbah creation for a women
might do so for reasons as varied as a desire toe express his love,
to wishing to flaunt to the rest of the world his personal financial
success. A women buying Tabbah on the other hand, usually does so
in his opinion because she has an intrinsic love of the stone or
setting. But, Nabil further points out, whatever the motivation
to buy Tabbah, the purchase of it is itself an expression of the
highest and most refined sensibilities for luxury and opulence.
"I had
a male client return to me once and tell me that he was so pleased
with my designs for his jewellery, that he wanted me to personally
design the interior of his jet," grins Nabil. "He wanted
me to incorporate precious stones and mother-of-earl into the design,
which included gold taps throughout. It was amazing! Then there
was the gentleman who had me decorate his daughter's bridal gown
with diamonds, pearls and coral. One other time I can remember being
asked to design stationery which I then had to monogram with precious
stones.
"Our style
is what matters to the people who know us. Our style, our ability
to get the task done on time, and the reputation we have established
world-wide for being quality," Nabil continues. "We believe
for instance that when someone touches one of our pieces it must
feel sensuous. It has to draw you to it, make you want to reach
out and touch it, play with it. Our style is simple rather than
complex, and has to do with what I call a purity of form, where
lines flow and there is an emphasis on smoothness.
"Because
of our reputation for only dealing in the best stones, people now
come to us when they have an exceptional stone to sell or set,"
he adds. " in my opinion the stone must always be out of the
ordinary, particularly when we talk about personalised designs;
because a client who comes to me to ask that I design a piece especially
for them must themselves be an extraordinary person.
"As Jewellers
I would maintain that we at Tabbah are haute couture in jewellery,"
Nabil continues, " mean this in the sense that we design for
many clients directly - according to their personalities. In fact,
it is my preference to design a piece for a specific individual.
I get enormous satisfaction from enhancing a person's personality
with one of my creations. I will talk with and get to know each
client before I go away for a few days to think my ideas through.
When I return to them with my proposal, I find that more often that
not my estimation of their tastes and expectations as expressed
in my design have been accurate."
Beginning at
the comparatively humble level of one carat diamonds, Tabbah pride
themselves on having collected some of the more remarkable precious
stones ever made available to dealers or jewellers. Two such memorable
acquisitions were a 235 and a 250 carat diamond respectively, both
of which will soon doubtless find their way into further Tabbah
creations of note. The key to buying the right stone at the right
price, according to Nabil lies in understanding your market, your
potential clients and the product you are dealing with. In his own
words, one has "to be big enough to hold a large inventory
of stones, and strong enough to resist panic selling during times
of economic downturn or crisis. Such a test of strength faced the
company in 1975 when war broke out in Lebanon and family's manufacturing
enterprise was destroyed in the ensuing battles.
"When difficulties
in Lebanon became too much we moved to Monte Carlo," says Nabil
of that rather turbulent period in their colourful history. But
not before losing 150 of their specialised craftsmen and artisans
in the process, leaving the firm greatly depleted of skilled artists
at a time when demand for Tabbah jewellery was at an unprecedented
high. Although difficult, the family persevered, and within a few
short years had again relocated; this time to their present headquarters
in Geneva.
"Geneva
is a major centre for exchange of ideas and so on between East and
West, and therefore suits us very well," Nabil explains. "Trade
in stones is very big business here. In fact, I would say that most
of the business done in jewellery world-wide is done right here.
And it is interesting to note that in the past we didn't have to
consider marketing to the same degree that we do today. It is very
important now for jewellers and the like to be informed about all
manners of things, in particular, fashion and lifestyles that people
lead all over the world. Our products have to appeal to a wider
group of people how more than ever before. And here I refer perhaps
more to our general lines rather than our haute joaillerie, where
the emphasis is still on individuality of design."
Perhaps it is
this attitude which goes part of the way toward explaining the establishment
in 1987 of Tabbah International, a company set up in collaboration
with Andrew Mejias - himself a distinguished watchmaker, and based
in Fribourg Switzerland. Together, Nabil and Andrew Mejias have
expanded the Tabbah interests to include watches and writing instruments
worthy of carrying the name Tabbah.
Beautifully
refined and enormously elegant, the latest array of Tabbah products
betray none of the centuries-old traditions for incorporating contemporary
design with timelessness. Gold watches enhanced with delicate trimmings
of precious stones or stylishly etched faces; fountain pens enriched
by smooth lines, softly contoured nibs and intricately worked shells,
stunning link earrings with matching necklaces made of alternating
diamonds and sapphires that catch even the most subdued light. These
are the creations of which Nabil Tabbah speaks when he says smiling
with obvious satisfaction, "Our pieces are unique because we
are not constricted by any one style. We have great flexibility,
and this allows Tabbah to be continually open to further development
and interpretation.
When people
come through our door, they know that the quality of our products
is not negotiable."
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