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When Nicola
Trussardi decided it was time to bring the Trussardi name onto the
world's fashion stage he did it, naturally enough, in grand style.
But rather than present his first collection on one of the usual
haunts like a Grand Ballroom or a studio he took over the world's
most celebrated Opera House, La Scala in Milan. Then with the same
no nonsense approach he had shown to everything he had done in business
since taking over from his father and brother in 1970, Nicola Trussardi
opened the doors of his exhibition to the general public.
"At the
time it was not done to have anyone other than those from the fashion
press, the television people and one's potential and influential
clients invited to a launch", smiles Nicola Trussardi, often
referred to as Doctor Trussardi because of his Masters Degree in
Economics. "My idea was quite the contrary. I wanted the public
to see what we as a company had to offer. And the only way to do
this was to show them. That to me makes sense".
Founded in 1912
by Nicola Trussardi's grandfather, what today is an empire spanning
the gamut of luxury products from clothing to wrist-watches, perfume
and even motorcyles, began less expansively as a family business
involved solely in the manufacturing of leather gloves. Distinguished
and celebrated gloves made only from the finest leathers and sold
the world over. It was not however, until Nicola Trussardi's sudden
and unheralded entry into the company that the name Trussardi really
began to make fashion headlines internationally.
A gifted marketing
strategist with a creative mind to match, Nicola Trussardi quickly
responded to the sudden downturn in demand for luxury goods in the
early 1970's by diversifying the company's output toward producing
goods more in keeping with the changing social values of the time.
"When I
first came into the company on the sudden and tragic deaths of both
my father and my only brother in the same year, it was a time of
very poor economic and social conditions in Italy and Europe in
general", Nicola explains. "People had begun to move away
from luxury goods toward goods which they saw as more practical,
less extravagant and perhaps too, less ostentatious. It was, I believe,
a reaction to the times. My task was to keep the company going,
and I realised very quickly that if we concentrated simply on making
gloves very soon we would no longer have a business - no matter
how good the gloves were.
"It seemed
to me at that time that people were after a more casual approach
to life, and the trimmings that went with it", Nicola continues.
"Since leather had been the material with which our company
had always been associated I decided to familiarise myself as much
as possible with the entire process of leather preparation, and
in due course opened my own small tannery. The first thing we did
was to produce leather wear which was practical and functional,
much of which I designed, as well as some knitwear. This was the
early 70's and we were also involved in making leather products
for other designers of note, so I learned a lot in the meantime
by watching and listening carefully.
"When we
stared making handbags for instance, I realised that for most people
handbags were purely functional pieces", he continues. "My
response was to attempt something new; instead of making handbags
which were rigid and stiff, I began to use soft leathers, soft materials,
and made handbags more a part of the total fashion sense of that
period. My idea was to create something which could be used in many
situations, which could suit many different occasions. This was
something relatively new at the time, and it worked very well for
us". As did the introduction of the now famous greyhound logo.
In 1973 Nicola
Trussardi began searching for a way of making a definitive statement
about the range of products he proposed for his family's business.
A long-time dog lover, Nicola had always been fascinated by the
esteem in which certain breeds of dogs had been held since ancient
times. After considerable research he decided that the greyhound
with its blueblood pedigree, its blend of regal elegance and heritage
was the perfect symbolic representation of what he wanted the Trussardi
label to stand for.
And so it was
that the very first Trussardi product range to follow the success
of the leather wear, a stylish range of mens and ladies accessories
in gold, silver and Bria wood carried the distinctive Trussardi
emblem.
"The leather
wear and the gift items were hugely successful", says Trussardi.
"So successful in fact that I quickly followed them up with
the first of our own boutiques. This was in Milan in 1976, and since
then we have opened boutiques across the world, including Paris,
Madrid, Singapore and Toronto. In the early 1970's of course we
were a little company, but I saw the importance of diversifying
if we were to make any sort of lasting impact. It is for
this reason that today one finds the Trussardi name on a wide array
of products.
Inspired by
the success of these early ventures, Nicola Trussardi soon expanded
the company interests to include Nicola's own designs for a range
of motorbikes, underwear, fashion glasses, mens colognes, perfumes,
linen, Manchester and at one stage even cigarettes. More recently,
the Trussardi image has lent itself to the design of a select collection
of wrist-watches in collaboration with Bulova Eco Swisse Italia
and Finstile.
An innovative
designer and stylist, Nicola works hard to maintain the Trussardi
image of time-honoured handcraftsmanship in harmony with contemporary
technological sophistication. One look at the watches bearing the
Trussardi logo and one sees the unmistakable signature blend of
artistic flair and functional practicality. Like everything bearing
the Trussardi name these watches represent Nicola's constant concern
that quality be the overriding consideration of any Trussardi undertaking.
It was in recognition of this that both the Mayors of Milan and
Florence presented Trussardi with awards for outstanding contributions
to their respective cities, citing the company's ongoing commitment
to excellence as a fine example for other Italian manufacturers.
Eager to keep
up the momentum he set in motion twenty years ago, Nicola Trussardi
is not content to rest on and live off his past laurels, and so
the diversification continues. With wool and silk blend carpets,
exquisite rugs and an exclusive range of stylish furniture now part
of the Trussardi stable of luxury products, it seems inevitable
that market development is high on the agenda of things to tackle.
"Italy
is certainly our largest market at the moment", Nicola explains.
"But we re very big in Germany and Austria as well. Now there
is Japan, a potentially huge market for Trussardi. In fact, I can
remember that when I first took over and we were putting out our
first range of handbags, I was interviewed by a Japanese journalist
who fell in love with the product. She even took one back to show
a friend of hers who was a Japanese importer at the time because
she believed even then that what we at Trussardi had to offer was
something a little different, and yet appealing".
Celebrated for
its use of all natural fibres, including the much wanted category,
Trussardi fashions have won international acclaim with critics as
well as trend-setters. Vibrant colours, elegant silks and precious
hides have become the Trussardi hallmarks, fostering the development
of a diverse range of clothing, everything from sportswear and designer
jeans to classic evening wear. Their most popular line is undoubtedly
ready-to-wear, particularly in Italy.
"Italians
are very much into the concept of ready-to-wear", explains
Nicola. "Italians love to eat well, dress well and live well.
For Italians being well-dressed is very important, and we are very
lucky here in Italy in that we have an extensive textile industry
providing us with fabulous materials with which to work". From
Hussar jackets with rigid shoulders and frog closures, to riding
pants in soft leather the Trussardi image is one of refined and
understated elegance. Matched with the appropriate Trussardi fragrance,
the look is one of sheer good taste, and what Nicola Trussardi himself
likes to refer to as 'total Trussardi'.
When not thinking
up ways of furthering the Trussardi name and projects, Nicola Trussardi
spends time with his wife, two sons and two daughters. And of course
his greyhounds. Last year, the company whose logo bears the refined,
classic features of the pedigree dog, sponsored the famous greyhound
race run around Lake Samaden in St. Moritz. A lover of theatre,
the arts and good living, Nicola Trussardi maintains that had fate
not led him to take over the family business he might well have
pursued his passion for a career in economics, perhaps as a business
advisor. Indeed the company's purchase last year of the former Palazzo
Marino al Scala in Piazza Scala is part of Trussardi's expansion
into real estate concerns. The acquisition of the building is part
of an investment program in the real estate sector carried out by
an arm of the company, Fintrussardi which has already made its presence
felt in via Mazoni and in the Brera district of Milan. The purchase
of the Palazzo is, according to the Trussardi newsletter, "the
solidification of the long relationship between Milan and Trussardi
and of a commercial policy based on diversification. A corner of
Milan now will have the greyhound's stamp...." but lest it,
appears that economics take precedence over creative pursuits in
Trussardi's future plans, the bulletin finishes with the proud assertion:
"...and it will be the corner closest to the Teatro della Scala".
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