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An ancient
manuscript inscribed with a recipe for an elixir of long life is
delivered to the gates of a monastery in the French Alps. One hundred
years later the Carthusian monks capture the world market with the
release of Chartreuse liquers.
Behind the forbidding
walls of the ancient La Grande Chartreuse monastery in the French
Alps, the Carthusian Monks remain entirely isolated from the outside
world, veiled by the silence of their vows. Every three days, while
their brothers continue their contemplative lives, three monks leave
their prayer cells dressed in white shepherds' robes and file along
the polished corridors to the herb room. These three are the sole
guardians of a centuries-old secret, an alchemist's recipe for a
mediaeval elixir which the Carthusians have transformed into their
famous liqueurs, the yellow and green Chartreuse, the oldest of
the world's liqueurs.
Only the distillers
have ever been allowed to enter the herb room where they blend the
130 herbs essential to the base formula. When they order the various
plants and flowers from local suppliers, the invoices are sent directly
to the monastery. Not even Jean-Marc Roget, Chairman and Chief Executive
Officer of Chartreuse Diffusion, the company which handles the finances
and distribution of the products, knows the ingredients which he
pays for at the end of each month.
"I haven't
the slightest idea what we are buying", says Roget. "In
six years I haven't seen the name of a single plant. I receive a
note from the monastery saying 'Please supply this amount of money
to these suppliers for plant numbers one, two and three'. I no-longer
wonder what goes into the liqueurs or how to find out - you just
accept that you never will".
The Chartreuse
products have remained virtually unchanged for over two hundred
years. The distilling is an integral part of the life of the monastery,
which in itself has followed the same quest for 'an Ideal of Truth
and mystical fulfillment' for over nine hundred years.
The history
of the Carthusian Order began in 1084 when Bruno, Maitre celebre
de l'Universite de Reims and six other people decided to settle
in the Chartreuse mountains at the foot of the Alps and dedicate
their life to prayer. at first Bruno and his companions lived in
self-sufficient seclusion, but as their numbers grew and they were
forced to clear more land for grazing and growing crops, they began
to make masts from the huge stands of pine trees and supplied them
to the Fleet. Although no written laws had been defined for future
members of the Order, they were not to beg or accept charity and
so turned to the natural resources of their surroundings to support
their community.
Between the
14th and 17th centuries, they processed the woods from the forests
into charcoal, extracted iron ore from local mines and with power
provided by the mountain streams, became metallurgists. In fact
they are still recognised as having been the initiators of some
of the modern methods of metallurgy. In 1605, when their activities
as Iron Masters were at their peak - they had as many as 11 blast
furnaces in operation - a French soldier passed on to them an alchemist's
recipe for an 'Elixir of Long Life'. It wasn't until the monks'
metallurgy trade encountered severe difficulties over a century
later that their attention returned to the formula which they discovered
was a concentrate of the medicinal herbs, plants and flowers used
in the Middle Ages for curing all manner of illnesses. By 1737 they
had developed it and placed it on the market.
"This product was nicknamed the 'Elixir of Long Life' and used
to cure anything", explains Jean-Marc Roget. "If you had
had a big meal, you would take it with sugar to promote better digestion;
if you were bitten by an insect you rubbed it on the bite to stop
the itching. It also stopped seasickness. In 1764 they further refined
it into a 'health liqueur' and this is what we know today as 'Green
Chartreuse'. Around 1840 the recipe was adapted to produce another
liqueur with lower alcohol content - this was 'Yellow Chartreuse'.
The recipes have not changed since and just to demonstrate this,
if you bump your head, don't drink the liqueur, rub it on your head
and you will not get a bruise. It really works!"
With the introduction
of Yellow Chartreuse, the monks virtually introduced liqueurs to
the world. In 1870 they were producing about 13,000 bottles. Fifteen
years later they sold a total in excess of three million. "Yellow
Chartreuse set the trend", says Roget. "This is exactly
when we think the world of liqueur started. To tell you how big
Chartreuse became, Queen Victoria asked the Pope, who was not really
her best friend at the time, to be allowed into the monastery from
which this unbelievable product came. Everyone in our industry tells
of the long history of their product but at this time they were
not being sold. In France, everyone would agree that Chatreuse was
the one. Liqueurs became really big at the end of the 19th century,
just as Chartreuse was about to disappear from the market".
Early this century
the Government in France was very left wing and was attempting to
restrict the Church's involvement in the political sphere to no
avail. In 1903 the Carthusians and other Catholic Orders were expelled
from France. The monks set up a distillery in Spain but war years
were ahead and the Order was lucky to survive at all. They returned
to France during the Great War but production of Chartreuse was
limited until the 1950s.
"Really,
this is the new life of Chartreuse", says Roget. "We are
not on a two hundred year story. Chartreuse has been going strong
since the Second World War but many other products took the stage
while these liqueurs were out of the market. The Yellow Chartreuse
is very much in line with Drambuie or Contreau which are easy to
drink with a smooth honey base which cleanses the palate. The Yellow
was the world fashion a century ago but today, for us, the situation
has reversed - the Green is number one. It is a very specific spicy
taste, in fact we had a tasting with Indians recently who liked
it very much and said it reminded them of their spice markets. It
is strong, very distinctive and you either love it or you don't.
Chartreuse is the only liqueur that is aged before being put on
the market. Both the Yellow and Green are aged for three years and
there is also the 'V.E.P.' - Exceptionally Long Aging - which is
aged between 12 and 15 years and in my opinion it is the best liqueur
you can find".
La Grande Chartreuse,
the monastery founded by (Saint) Bruno in 1084 is still the main
monastery of the Carthusian Order. There are now 23 monasteries
in all, and their inhabitants are the shareholders of Chartreuse.
The Carthusians are the most silent Order of the Catholic Church,
praising a solitary life of continual prayer and worship. As Chairman
of Chartreuse Diffusion, Jean-Marc Roget deals directly with three
monks: the Father Superior, the supreme authority of the Order who
never leaves the monastery; the Procurator who is "in charge
of the outside world and who acts as the go-between of the many
monasteries"; and the Chief Distiller, a monk now in his late
seventies.
"I have
been with Chartreuse now for six years", says Roget, "and
it's like being the chairman of any company, except perhaps that
the people I deal with are more fascinating than just about anyone
you are likely to meet in the world of business. My direct boss
is the Procurator and when we meet, usually twice a month, we talk
about profits, turnover, distribution, just like at any business
meeting. This so-called boss of mine went to business school before
entering the monastery and likes to discuss these things. It is
his job. The Father Superior, on the other hand, couldn't care less.
"You must
remember that they are different from other people in that they
are not from our world. What I mean is that when you are dealing
in the public arena you hear all the noises of the world and you
have a hard time remembering what you did three days before. Anything
you say is important to the monks: where you have been and who you
have met and how the product sells. They are also careful not to
ask too many questions because this interest can place at risk their
choice in life. Sometimes I say to the distiller, 'do you really
want me to answer that?' and he says, 'Maybe not'. The more they
love the outside world, the more difficult it becomes for them.
When we meet I usually have one question about philosophy which
they will try to explain to me. They are always ready to skip from
how many bottles we are selling in Yugoslavia to whether God is
present in every person". The annual turnover of Chartreuse
is approximately 31 million francs, which relative to other liquor
manufacturers is very small indeed. 100% of the profit goes back
into the business. Perhaps another distinction of doing business
with the Carthusians is that shareholders are never likely to be
vocal about dividends owed.
"Every time we sell one litre of liqueur they are entitled
to X number of francs", explains Roget. "Two years ago
we made a nice profit and the Procurator came to me and said, 'Are
you mad! Why are we making a profit? What are we going to do with
it?' I said that we needed it to grow, to invest and to provide
a better cash flow. At no time did it enter his mind that he could
ask for some of it".
In 1984 Roget
asked the monks to produce a new liqueur to celebrate the 900th
anniversary of the Order. He suggested that the market would respond
well to a liqueur which had the specific taste of Green Chartreuse
but which was much sweeter than the original. After a great deal
of resistance, the Father Superior agreed and had a number of the
Fathers develop a recipe for a new liqueur which was an adaptation
of the original formula scrawled on the ancient manuscript of 1605.
This was the first time that any change has been made to the Chartreuse
liqueurs since the Yellow was released in 1840 ... except perhaps
for one brief oversight made by a distiller which, according to
the Father Superior, did not go unnoticed.
"The superior
once said to me that a farmer had complained that Chartreuse was
no longer helping his cattle; that the formula was no good",
Roget recalls. "You see, in France the cattle are kept in barns
in winter and when spring comes they get very excited and eat all
the new grass and the air in their stomachs can kill them. To prevent
this some farmers give their cattle half a bottle of the elixir
in a bucket of water. The superior was very surprised to hear that
the elixir was not helping the cattle and went to the distiller
to remind him that they are not allowed to change the formula. The
distiller said, 'Well, Father Superior, I have not changed anything,
I have just run out of the viper snake venom'. The superior told
him to acquire some immediately. Soon after the farmer reported
that his cows were well again. I asked the superior, 'Do you really
put viper snake into the elixir?' 'Well', he said, 'maybe that's
just a little story for you to tell'".
Likewise, the
bottle of Chartreuse has changed only slightly in a century and
a half. A number of years ago a new Chairman decided it was time
for a new design and commissioned an advertising agency to submit
some labels for consideration. "It cost them a fortune",
says Roget, "and it did not look like Chartreuse anymore. The
Procurator at the time who was 77 years old said, 'I am fed up with
you spending all this money' and he took a pair of scissors to the
original label and after a few quick slices said 'This is the way
it should be', and I think he was right because the result is fine.
"In France
Chartreuse is promoted with tonic water on the rocks and today many
youngsters enjoy Chartreuse because it was not their father's drink
- it is a product which is so old it is new again. The last picture
we used for advertising was youngsters drinking Chartreuse and tonic
water on a surfboard. The problem was to find a bathing costume
for a girl which would be acceptable to the monks. We showed the
pictures to the Board of Directors and they thought it was great,
including the Procurator. The next morning he phoned to ask me what
we were going to do with this picture. I told him it was going to
be placed in many hotels to show how enjoyable Chartreuse is. He
said 'You are not going to represent Chartreuse with this girl in
this bathing costume'.
"It took
me three days to convince him. He said he would have to take the
picture to the Father Superior for his opinion. After a few days
I had not heard from him and so I contacted him. He did not even
say yes, it was all right. All he said was, 'Don't ever do worse'.
This is not an ignorant attitude by any means - they know that their
image means a lot to many people and Chartreuse is a part of their
life. Chartreuse allows them to devote themselves to their real
work, which is spiritually bound"
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