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Said to be the definitive gastronomic experience by enamoured gourmets the world over, Foie Gras at the hands of fifth generation producers, Bizac is one of life's poultry delights. Perhaps the most famous of the wildly varied cuisines of the gastronomically rich regions of Perigord and Quercy are the truffles and goose liver that are the essential constituents of the local fare. Here, every farmers wife prepares to her own recipe truffled goose livers, potted goose meats and stuffed goose necks amongst other delicacies derived from specially cultivated geese of Perigord, and like France's other beloved export, Champagne, a local digestive tradition has spread to the welcoming palates of gourmets all over the world. One hundred and sixty-five years since its founder, Guillaume Bizac adopted the idea of canning the speciality meats of his native region, the company bearing his name is today, the world's oldest Maison Foie Gras. The son of a farmer from the Periogord Noir, Bizac early decided to set up a small business retailing food products near his home. An enterprising fellow, Bizac put his fascination with Appert's recently discovered techniques for preserving food in metal containers to practical use. Realising the potential of making available to the market an array of his region's specialities, all year round, Bizac opened a small factory at Souillac where he set about canning truffles and goose livers for the convenience of discerning gourmets all over France, and soon greater Europe. Succeeded by
his son, Jean-Leon in 1875, the firm rapidly expanded demanding
the establishment of a second factory in Brive which diversified
into the production of that district's delicacies, including the
flavoursome forest mushrooms. Joined by sons, Fernand and Rene,
the Bizac company continued to thrive, interrupted only for a brief
period by the First World War. At the cessation of hostilities,
and following the death of Jean-Leon, Bizac continued to expand,
its mantle being taken over by successive generations of Bizacs.
Today, with the benefit of modern technology and a huge facility
at Le Teinchurier near Brive, Bizac exports its now considerably
expanded range of speciality foods to over 40 countries throughout
the world. But like it did nearly two hundred years ago, the finest
foie gras in the world begins with the fattest, 'crammed' geese
raised especially for the purpose. But the technique of cramming geese to encourage bountiful livers far pre-dates the French gastronomic tradition. The Pharaohs of ancient Egypt had also discovered that cramming geese produced very attractive results for the palate as depicted in an old fresco dating back to 2500 BC discovered at Sakkarah in which six Egyptians are shown doing just that. The Romans also, despite looking upon the goose as a sacred animal, were not averse to shelving their respect to partake of a succulent example of their prized icon. The term foie gras in fact, derives from a Latin expression jecur figatum meaning "liver stuffed with figs" as the Romans had devised their cramming feed from a mixture of crushed dried figs, milk and honey. Larousse documents the activities of one Scipio Metelus, a Roman gastonome of the day who hit upon the idea of plunging the still warm livers into a specially prepared bath of milk and honey where they were left to soak for several hours, after which time the livers had swelled considerably, having absorbed the sweet mixture. "The Land of Milk and Honey" was still several centuries away as the Jewish homeland when historical records documented the re-emergence of foie gras after a long absence: attributing its rebirth to Europe's Jewish population. An extremely old 17th century text was found to desport the saying: "We have eaten liver stuffed by Bohemian Jews". Obviously not of the more commonly found chopped variety today, the Jews are credited with having pioneered a technique in the cramming of poultry - the farming of maize crops with which to cram the geese having been introduced to Europe in the 16th century - which they took with them as they migrated across France. Thus south west France and Alsace received the benefit of what would become a gourmet's delight. Interestingly, Israel, next to Hungary, is the world's leading producer of geese today. The first ever recipe for pate de foie gras was invented by an inn-keeper in 1769 and reinterpreted by a cake maker from Perigueux, soon after. But as an elaborate delicacy of torturously painstaking pre-preparation, crammed geese livers did not benefit from a definitive recipe until Chef Clause's endeavours proved most fruitful in Strasbourg in 1789. Named pate de Contades, the dish was prepared by M. Clause at the behest of his employer, the Marechal de Contades, Governor of Alsace. The recipe was ingenious in its simplicity. Consisting of a whole goose liver encased in a pastry crust, the dish was a spectacular success. So much so that the very proud Marechal sent a sample to King Louis XVI who was so delighted that he gave the Marechal an estate in Picardy in gratitude, while M. Clause received an incongruous twenty pistols for his troubles The inclusion as a finishing touch to the celebrated pate de Contades, the much feted truffles were a later addition by a chef named Doyen whose brain wave actually owes much to the French Revolution. Disturbed by the increasing civil unrest, Doyen had fled his native Perigord - home of the truffle - for the relative safety of Strasbourg. Today the geese and ducks selected for breeding for their livers are crammed on a complex mixture of prime corn, maize, fats and salts. In France, the cramming of geese born the Spring prior begins in the Autumn. The cramming itself generally lasts for four weeks for geese and three for ducks. While once manually crammed using an Archimedes Screw and funnel, today's birds are electrically crammed twice to three times a day prior to slaughter. Such regulated feeding ensures that the size of the livers is at an optimum weight - somewhere between 700-900 grams, although some livers from Toulouse and Strasbourg geese have been known to reach a staggering 2 kg each. For those involved in the production of Foie Gras the eternal problem is that of finding sufficient birds of suitable weight which will in turn provide the most suitable livers for preparation as premium Foie Gras. The cost of the final product, particularly in its purest form as whole goose or duck liver Gras, effects both the scarcity of premium birds and the strictness of the selection criteria. Naturally, the genetic structural attributes of the poultry are taken into account as certain species are more suitably predisposed to productive cramming than others. The geese and ducks bred for this purpose are scarce indeed thus presenting the breeders - who incidentally, are collectively estimated to consume 20% of the total production of foie gras - with the fundamental problem of reproduction of the species. Where a hen can produce up to 135 chicks a year, the female goose averages a paltry 15-20 goslings, 30 only in the most optimum conditions. Ducks also, share a similarly low rate of reproduction. Such obstacles have prompted extensive government funded research into ways of maximising reproduction in controlled environments utilising artificial sunlight, and revised cramming techniques. These activities take place in a special experimental centre in Artigueres. Coupled with this essential factor, not all livers are deemed of sufficient quality to warrant using as pure Foie Gras. Besides the all-important weight, the colour of the liver is important. Livers which show any sign of bruising or any other minor blemish are not regarded as premium and are categorised accordingly. Such attention to detail is not simply a question of aesthetics, but is controlled by very strict laws and regulations which govern the labelling of any product made from goose or duck liver. Only pure goose or duck liver can be sold as Foie Gras, the word 'gras' indicating the official definition of top grade. The second grade may be labelled as pate, galantine or puree but must contain no less than 50% foie gras. Further to this there is strict control over what is added to the liver, and this can vary from cognac, armagnac and port wine to truffles. Although popular right through the last two centuries, the use of truffles in Foie Gras while still common, is not as popular as it once was. Nonetheless the famous truffles of Perigord and Quercy are still esteemed for their rich, complexity of flavours, and Foie Gras Truffe is regarded by many discerning connoisseurs as the Champagne of goose liver. While still maintaining that the raw product is the essential ingredient in any successful Foie Gras, the ingredients and specific preparation methods used in transforming raw liver into Foie Gras, remains in a select few hands. Only three people within the Bizac empire are privy to the highly valued secret of which eighteen different spices are used, and in what combinations, and understandably, they are not about to reveal these secrets of their art. What is known however, is that before being prepared by the chefs, the liver is left to stand for twenty-four hours and then cooked according to size and desired result at established temperatures. It is also known that only livers of between 700 and 900 grams are deemed of sufficient size for consideration as premium Gras, and that livers cooked whole are the epitome of the Foie Gras experience. Suppliers of geese or duck to Bizac must unfailingly met three primary criteria; the bird must be the correct weight, show the correct colour and have the correct texture. Further it must have been crammed on at least one kilo of prime corn a day for the duration of the cramming period, and it must not have too much fat, for fat deposits in the liver and so spoils it. Since the early 1980's even the slaughter and evisceration of the poultry must be carried out according to certain regulations, with every bird having to be eviscerated no longer than 24 hours after being killed. The actual workshops themselves have also been designed on the continuous forward production line principle to ensure that the raw materials, finished products and scraps never come into contact with each other. While seemingly severe such regulations help keep the quality of French Foie Gras at the highest level, and ensure that what is largely a special occasion dish remains amongst the elite of the world's luxury foods. As with anything truly worthy of gastronomic praise, Foie Gras demands a certain attention to detail when being prepared for serving. And there are as many ways to serve Foie Gras as there are chefs to conceive of the recipes. But perhaps the most tantalising of all is to chill the freshest Foie Gras - being careful never to freeze it for this destroys the texture and ultimately the taste, and then to slice it very thinly and serve on a thin layer of crushed ice. With five generations at the helm of Bizac since 1825 the traditions begun by dedicated wives of men on the land who worked away in their cottages to reproduce exquisite home-made Foie Gras and related dishes continue unabated. Today, the Bizac name is associated with a variety of sophisticated gastronomic delights, everything from the famed truffled Foie Gras and Fillets of goose and duck, to Smoked Salmon from Scotland and Canada. Where once Foie Gras was the exclusive privilege of those fortunate enough to be able to make their own, the foresight of Guillaume Bizac has ensured that lovers of fine foods everywhere can partake of this most definitive of gastronomic creations. For in this case, it is man who has harnessed a natural resource and made it better, and this is echoed in the words of C. Gerard, author of L'Ancienne Alsace a Table, an obvious amorist of the poultry delights: "The goose is nothing, but man has made of it an instrument for the output of a marvellous product, a kind of living hothouse in which grows the supreme fruit of gastronomy". POULARDE A LA SOUVAROFF 1 roasting chicken (approx. 3kg) salt, pepper 1 cup raw rice 1 tin (approx. 200g) foie gras truffe 1/2 cup Champagne 1/2 cup butter, melted 1/3 cup flour 2 cups chicken broth 1/2 cup Madeira wine Wash chicken and pat dry. Season the inside and out with salt and pepper. Cook rice in boiling salted water for 18 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Dice foie gras. Mix the rice, foie gras and Champagne together. Season to taste. Stuff the chicken with the mixture and skewer or sew the openings. Place the chicken in a shallow baking pan. Brush the chicken with some of the melted butter and roast in a moderate oven (1800C) for 1 1/2 - 2 hours, basting the chicken several times during the roasting process. Drain the pan juices into a saucepan. Stir in the flour, then gradually stir in the chicken broth and the Madeira. Stir over a medium heat until the sauce thickens and bubbles. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Carve the chicken and serve the stuffing. Spoon the sauce over each individual serving. If desired, garnish the serving platter with baby string beans and watercress. TOURNEDOS
ROSSINI 2 truffles 1/2 cup Madeira wine 8 slices French bread 1 cup butter 8 tournedos, 5cm thick salt, pepper 1/2 cup well-flavoured beef broth 1 tin (approx. 280g tin) Parfait de foie gras truffe, chilled and cut into eight slices
Place the truffles in a small pan with the Madeira, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Then, cut the truffles into 8 slices and leave to steep in the Madeira. Saute the bread slices in 2 tablespoons of the butter until browned on both sides. Keep warm. Season the tournedos with salt and pepper, then saute them in 3 tablespoons of the butter over a moderate heat until brown outside and rare inside. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Pour the beef broth into the tournedos cooking pan. Add the Madeira drained from the truffles and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining butter. Beat in any of the juices that have seeped from the tournedos. Place the bread slices on the serving plates. Top with the tournedos, a slice of the foie gras, and a slice of truffle. Spoon the sauce around the tournedos and serve immediately garnished with sprigs of watercress.
BRIOCHE DE FOIE GRAS Brioche Dough (made the night before): 15g fresh yeast 700ml milk, boiled and cooled to lukewarm 15g fine salt 500g flour 6 eggs 350g butter, at room temperature 30g sugar Place the yeast and milk in the bowl of the mixer and beat lightly with a whisk. Add the salt, then flour and the eggs. Switch the mixer onto medium speed and work the mixture with a dough hook for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. (If mixing by hand, use a spatula and work the dough for about 20 minutes). Mix the butter and the sugar together, reduce the mixer speed to low and add the butter mixture to the dough, a little at a time, all the while working the dough, increase the mixer speed and blend for 8-10 minutes, or 15 if working by hand. The dough should be smooth and glossy, fairly elastic and supple. Cover the dough with a tea towel and leave in a warm place for 2 hours until it has doubled in size. Place the dough on a floured board and knead vigorously NO MORE than three times. Cover with tea towel once again and refrigerate. 1/4 cup melted butter 1 tin foie gras truffle (approx. 275g) 100g softened cream cheese 2 tbsp cognac Knead the dough gently once more and cut off a small piece about the size of a crab apple. Shape the large piece of dough into a smooth ball and place into a greased brioche tin. Brush with the beaten egg. Shape the small piece of dough into a smooth ball with a long pointed end, then press the end into hole. Brush with beaten egg also and allow to double in a warm place for about 30 minutes. Bake both in a pre-heated oven at 1800C for 30-40 minutes. Unmould and allow to cool thoroughly. Slice off the rounded top of the brioche and hollow out the brioche leaving a shell 2.2cm thick. With the bread removed, crumble and mix crumbs with the foie gras and the remaining ingredients. Spoon into the brioche and replace with the new top. Chill and serve cut into wedges. FOIES DE VOLAILLES AUX RAISINS 1 fresh duck foie gras (aprox. 350g) 500ml milk 150g button mushrooms 90g butter 120g clarified butter 12 thin diagonal slices from a baguette 2 tbsp armagnac or cognac 100ml veal stock 3tbsp double cream 150g grapes, preferably white, deseeded and peeled pinch nutmeg salt, freshly ground pepper
Peel the mushrooms and wipe with a damp cloth or wash in cold water if necessary. If they are large, cut into 2 or 3 pieces. Heat 30g of butter in a frying pan and saute the mushrooms for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander and set over a bowl to catch the cooking juices. Reserve. To make the croutons, hat 80g of clarified butter in frying pan and fry the bread until pale golden on both sides. Place on a wire rack to cool. Heat the remaining clarified butter in frying pan, then pour in the veal stock and cooking juices from the mushrooms, reduce gently until of a syrupy consistency then add the cream and the mushrooms. Cook for three minutes, then add the grapes and swirl in the remaining butter by shaking the pan gently. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place three slices of fried bread on each plate and heat at 1600C in the oven for 2 minutes. At the very last minute before serving, cut the raw foie gras into 1 cm slices and fry in clarified butter over high heat for 1 minute on each side. Remove the bread from the oven, spoon the foie gras equally on each plate and pour over the sauce, mushrooms and grapes. Serve immediately. |
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