Vive La Vie

This spectacular coastline which embraces the charming resort towns of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, where the narrow road laces its way around precipices defying gravity and which provides us with one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world, invites us to imagine ourselves back in the sunny carefree days of the sixties - for here the beauty and romance of those times has not changed.

The people here have a strong affinity with their beloved coast and they have perfected the art of living: they are part of the elements surrounding them - and they salute their good fortune in a timelessness which is nurtured by infinite vistas of unchanged beauty. Life here still revolves around the sun and sea, the enjoyment of simple pleasures - and immediately recalls to mind those heady days of wine and roses when carefree summers rolled on endlessly.

Driving along the coast, past the green terraces of grapevines, the groves of lemon and olive trees which sweep down the slopes to the clear blue water below, you are presented with a panorama of breathtaking beauty. Houses and hotels are perched in spectacular locations to capture the magnificent views. The soft greens of hills and valleys, the azure sea and sky, and the warm, faded yellow-pink buildings all meld together in this palette of seductive colour. In small villages the air is heavy with the scent of roses and carnations. As you walk along the narrow, paved streets, the pink flowers of the oleanders hang over crumbling stone walls - and the effect is one of mellow beauty. Completely and utterly charming in its simplicity.

The best way to really enjoy the Amalfi Coast is touring by car. Driving south from Sorrento, the road climbs toward the Colli di San Pietro, then descends into POSITANO. Once a sleepy little fishing village and the secret of painters and writers, its "fatal gift of beauty" has been discovered. However, its charms are still evident; square, white Moorish-style houses set in luxurious gardens, descend in steep steps down the mountainside to the bay where, off-shore lay the Galli Islands, legendary home of sirens who lured sailors to their doom. Today the scene is equally alluring.

Driving on towards Amalfi, the little church of San Pietro with its terrace provides a fine place to stop and absorb the view along the coast. Six kilometres on, the road passes over the Furore Valley between two tunnels. This picturesque gorge, narrow and fjord-like, carves its way inland between precipitous walls of rock. A fisherman's village below, with houses clinging to the slopes and the beach scattered with brightly coloured boats has remained unchanged for centuries.

The Emerald Grotto is nearby and is reached by steps or lift and then by rowing boat. The exceptionally clear water in this marine cave is illuminated indirectly by rays of sunlight giving it a beautiful emerald colour of extraordinary depth. Reflected in the water are the marvelous golden coloured stalactites which are suspended from the cave roof.

The road winds on towards Amalfi which suddenly bursts into view as you emerge from a tunnel gouged through a cliff. It is unbelievably pretty; tall, white houses, churches and towers perch atop rocky precipices in the Molini Valley facing a bay of azure blue with a backdrop of rugged mountains.

Amalfi was once a seafaring Republic, rivalling Genoa, Venice and Pisa, from the ninth to the eleventh centuries. Today that competitiveness is exemplified by their participation in the Trophy of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics; a Regatta held each May in Venice.

Near the waterfront is the piazza del Duomo and the ninth century Cathedral of Saint Andreas (St. Andrew), whose remains are said to be buried in the crypt. Extensively rebuilt last century and superbly maintained, this fine Cathedral reflects Amalfi's original importance.
Starting at the Piazza del Duomo there is a pleasant scenic walk to the Molini Valley (Valley of the Mills) where paper mills were established in early times, introducing paper to Italy. From the Piazza, alleys lead under white arches where curious little shops display ceramics ranging from huge jars to small jugs, all glowing with the appealing colours and designs of the region.

From Amalfi a winding road ascends seven kilometres up the "Dragon's Valley" to the hill town of RAVELLO. Located on the small escarpment of Monte Lattari, it is set amidst vast semi-tropical gardens and overlooks, from 350 metres, the coast towards the Gulf of Salerno in the south and Amalfi, below. It is no wonder then, that this town, with its head in the clouds and its clear, sunny climate, has appealed for centuries to writers, artists, musicians, travellers... and dreamers! Boccaccio, D. H. Lawrence and Wagner are among the "greats" who succumbed to the spell of Ravello. Wagner partly composed his opera "Parsifal" there, and today author Gore Vidal lives and derives inspiration from this charming town.

The Hotel Parsifal (named after Wagner's opera) provides modern facilities whilst retaining its original charm and atmosphere. Built in the thirteenth century as a Convent of the Order of St. Augustine, its paved balconies and weathered stone walls crystallise an ambience which is ageless. It is easy to conjure images of medieval life in this town as you stroll through its intriguing alleys, stairways and roofed passages to find yourself at Villa Rufolo.

Beautiful gardens with views across the mountains and the Coast below, surround this home of the powerful medieval family of that name. It is a magnificent building; its Moorish cloisters beckoning from an avenue shaded by ancient trees. The extensive gardens of exotic plants and brilliantly coloured flowers frame vistas of the water far below. Here, each Spring a Wagnerian festival is held at sunset; there, suspended high above the cerulean sea and the coastline, the composer is commemorated, and so too is the inspiration he derived from his love of Ravello.

The charms of Ravello also captivated an Englishman, Lord Grimthorpe, who built the Villa Cimbrone early this century with the help of his valet, Nicola Mansi, a native of Ravello. Together they transformed an ancient villa, enriching it with antiques, paintings and relics collected from all over Italy. Today the gardens of Cibrone are a mediterranean sanctuary. Tall cypresses reach heavenward, the fragrance of massed roses fills the air; pathways lead us to statues of Roman gods. Along the "Avenue of Immensity" huge pink oleanders line the way to the Belvedere posed on the cliff's edge. From this little building you can pause to take in the unforgettable views from here across the "Infinite Terrace" to the sea and sky beyond, and recall the words of Omar Khayam which are carved above a stone seat in the rose garden at Villa Cimbrone:

How oft, indeed! For most people who visit this wonderful coast and who become enchanted with its seemingly endless beauty their experiences are epitomised by those words. Often called "The Divine Coast", this stretch of Italy between Sorrento and Salerno affords the experience of a lifetime, and one which is truly sublime.

When to visit: Best months are April, May, June, September, October. Avoid the peak tourist months of July and August if possible. The clear sunny climate is best in May and October.

Amalfi Drive: Most spectacular section is between Amalfi and Positano - approximately 40 km. The road is just two cars wide in many sections, so take care. If car and bus meet at the wrong point, the car must reverse. Passengers may relax and be spellbound. It's so glorious you will want to make the journey in the opposite direction - a driver change opportunity. Allow plenty of time.

There are several deluxe hotels, including the superb San Pietro , regarded as the top resort on the Amalfi Coast. If you are in this $400 night category, also consider the Excelsior Grand Hotel at Pogerola, nearer Amalfi; stunning architecture, brilliant views, and cheaper - $180 night.

As usual throughout Italy, most accommodations offer full or half pension which can be particularly good value.

Prices quoted are approximate, include service for 2 or 3 courses, with wine. Generally advisable to reserve.

Beautiful location with superb views, terraced gardens, with olive trees and scented lemons. Outdoor dining, all rooms with balconies.

Ex monastery from 17th century, in tranquil location high over Amalfi. Terrace dining, gracious hosts. Double w/bath and breakfast $65.

From end of Viale dei Molini a fair walk uphill to this unique restaurant, in a lemon garden, where all the dishes are related to lemons, even the pastas. And of course, exceptional lemonade. About $15 per head.

Most visitors take meals at their hotel but this atmospheric restaurant is unpretentiously delightful -

Because of its extensive coastline this region of Italy features an interesting variety of fish as the mainstay of its cuisine. Other important ingredients are tomatoes, mozzarella and an enormous variety of pasta; ziti, vermicelli, cannelloni, paccari, maltagliati, linguine and spaghettini will all be found here served in traditional sauces. Particular classic dishes of the area are Spaghetti alle Vongole (a delicious red clam sauce), "Ragu del guardaportone" and "Zuppa di pesce" an aromatic thick fish soup served over crusty bread which almost makes bouillabaisse seem second rate.

There is Gran Caruso di Ravello which is made from grapes grown on the slopes surrounding Ravello; an excellent complement to the local cuisine and which is well-priced. Other wines to note are rubizzo Gragnano, Ischia, Solopaca di Benevento all' Irpinia and a dry white wine from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, Lacrima Christi - "Tears of Christ".