Marching into Germany around 70 A.D. after exhausting European campaigns, the Emperor Caracalla and his foot-weary soldiers were pleasantly surprised to discover the soothing comfort afforded by the waters that surged from deep below the surface of the Florentine mountains. So taken was Caracalla by the revitalising qualities of the water that in the space of a few short years the Romans had lent their engineering talents to building magnificent bathhouses on the site; taking full advantage of the natural protection provided by the Black Forest and the surrounding mountains.

The Roman's called it 'Aquae', today it is known as Baden Baden, and the thermal waters continue t be the source of much pleasure, both as a means of relaxation and for their healing qualities. For a small garrison, the ancient site has prospered beyond eve the most optimistic of Roman expectations, and today boats a magnificent array of spa and leisure facilities, included in which are the famed Caracalla Therme and the oldest casino in Europe.

While the thermal baths have always drawn people from all over Germany it wasn't until the fifteenth century that the famed healing properties of the waters of Baden Baden reached the well-heeled of Europe, when Kaiser Friedrich II came to the town for a cure and made it his Royal seat. From this point on the demand for treatment at the waters grew so overwhelming that a director had to be appointed to organise and co-ordinate the activities around the spas. By the turn of the sixteenth century a visitors tax had to be levied to raise the necessary funds needed to maintain the spas.

The tax did nothing to deter the wealthy and by the eighteenth century the fame of the waters and the spas which had initially been built to comfort the aches and pains of the Roman Legionnaires became the playground of the European aristocracy. Often accompanied by a caravan of luggage and personal servants they flocked to Baden Baden to 'take the waters' and promenade the narrow streets in all their finery. It was not unusual to see men and women (in separate bath rooms of course, for the era of liberalism had not yet arrived) soaking up to six hours in the hot waters, their ailments eased, and sometimes even completely cured by the end of a few days treatment.

There was no more stylish an affair throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries than to be seen at Baden Baden in the Summer, especially if you had the good fortune of having spent the winter in Paris, where the establishment gathered to pass the cold days and nights in idle chatter over a glass of champagne or gambling at the casinos. Fittingly it would be the establishment of a casino at Baden Baden that would complete its metamorphosis from just a health resort to an international recreation facility of the highest calibre.

"The actual spa facilities at Baden Baden are still excellent today," says Mr. Peter Saur, from the Baden Baden Tourist Commission. "These being two big spa houses, the largest of which has been totally renovated since it was built in the 1870's. Baden Baden really became popular during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as the place for summer holidays. All the Kings and Emperors came here, and it was about this time that the first casino was established".

It was the internationally acclaimed architect Friederich Weinbrenner who converted a Jesuit college a mere stones throw from the baths into a conversation house and casino in 1812. But it was the defeats of Napoleon in Moscow in the following years and the curbing of gambling in the French capital city that gave the enterprising Frenchman. Jacques Benazet the opportunity for expanding his gambling interests across the Rhine. In 1838 he took over control of the fledgling casino at Baden Baden. His move proved auspicious since the gambling community of Paris was looking for a new diversion from the problems of the French Empire and found merit in combining a therapeutic treatment at the spas with the excitement of gambling.

"The casino here at Baden Baden is actually the mother casino of the casino in Monte Carlo, "explains Mr. Saur. "In fact Mr. Benazet, the Frenchman who set up the first casino here at Baden Baden, had asked the French King for permission to open a casino in Paris but was refused so he came here and asked the Duke for permission to and was granted it.

Not only was permission for the casino granted but the political turmoil throughout the continent had focused attention on the region to such a degree that it had become the diplomatic centre of Europe. The once small town prospered like no other in the area and it was not uncommon for heads of state to conduct delicate negotiations around the spa pools by day and ease away their worries at the gambling tables by night. The locals, until then content to continue the centuries old traditions of pig-breeding, now took it upon themselves to become entrepreneurs of a sort, selling board in their houses to the tourists who flocked there to be a part of the "joie de vivre".

Jacques Benazet had all the trademarks of a European Count; tall, elegant, well spoken and unashamedly French. He was a man who was said to harbour a passionate adoration of women and coloured his hair with 'China water'. By a carefully planned promotional strategy Jacques Benazet was able to give Baden Baden all the distinction once only afforded Paris. He had French boutiques built in the town centre, and stocked them exclusively with French clothes. He held Grand Balls, inviting guests from all over Europe. He even paid for some of France's most prominent and influential journalists to come and spend time in Baden Baden, the result of which was a series of glowing editorials that drew the fickle French to Baden Baden and his casino as moths to a flame. One society journalist, Eugene Guninot was moved to write Europe has only capitals; in winter it is Paris, in summer Baden Baden".

It was the era of the waltz, and the grounds of the spas and casinos range to the strains of violins and the swish of ball gowns. Richard Wagner himself visited, as did Hector Berlioz who wrote his last opera specifically for performance at the new Theatre that was built as part of the on-going developments of Baden Baden. Everyone and everything prospered. The 'Beau Monde' had arrived. But already the horizon had begun to dim as the first tremors of what would become the Franco-Prussian war were felt throughout Europe.

Once hostilities became rife, the French abandoned Baden Baden in droves, turning instead to Monte Carlo and the seaside resorts of Italy and Spain. By October 1872 the cry 'Rien ne va plus' (No more Bets) went out, and the casino at Baden Baden was closed, for the first of three times in its history. It would reopen again in 1934 under a French based group of financiers after the death of Jacques son, Edouard Benazet, and his successor Jacques Dupressoir. But as one avenue of fortune collapsed another flourished. The German people, unable to travel widely any longer took their concerns and worries to the spas of Baden Baden, where again the natural invigorating qualities of the waters became the life blood of the region.

As demand for accommodation began to outstrip availability, hotels replaced the small inns and in-house board, and before long the spa waters of Baden Baden were again experiencing the fame they enjoyed well before the first casino had ever been conceived of.

"There were about 15,000 beds available for guests at that time, explains Mr. Saur. "Today we have around 5,000 yet the spas are still one of the most interesting places to visit in Germany. The atmosphere of the place allows people to relax. In 1981 for instance the meeting to discuss the boycott issue of the Olympic Games was held right here. Even today it remains a place where people come to find solutions to problems, even financial ones - if they get lucky at the casino. "But of course today a visitor to Baden Baden does not need to find a local to take them in because they can choose to stay at the magnificent Steigenberger Hotel right in the Spa Park complex itself. Luxuriously appointed, it is one of the thirty hotels run by the Steingenberger chain throughout Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

The first influx of people to get treatment at the spa led to the construction of the Friedrichsbad thermal baths in 1877, still one of the most impressive spa baths in the world, and where a visitor today can take a peek back into history by viewing the ruins of the original Roman baths that were unearthed during the work. The unique Roman-Irish styled baths are a marvel of architectural beauty. Constructed of marble, brass and stucco with slender columns, it is replete in frescoes and painted tiles. Here the stresses of the world at war during the early part of the twentieth century were, if not forgotten, at least held at bay for a while.

Shower, soap and brush massage, steam and hot air baths, and a dip in the thermal pool: these were the invigorating experiences of the Friedrichsbad, upholding the maxim that, 'Please is one of the most valuable forms of medicine'. It was a maxim that the Spa Park of Baden Baden did its utmost to live up to, despite the imminent closure of both the Bath house and the casino in 1944.

"The reputation of Baden Baden was enhanced by the fact that it was not bombed during either of the world wars," points out Mr. Saur. "It was like a peaceful island in the midst of all that turmoil. There had been French, American and English Officers here before the wars and they wanted the town to be left intact. And of course we didn't have any industry here so there was no strategic point in bombing the area".

The French in fact set up their High Command headquarters in the buildings surrounding the spa pools and within the casino building that Weinbrenner had so lovingly designed, along with the theatre that adjoined it, to reflect the great Parisian architecture of the nineteenth century. Yet just as the Franco-Prussian war had inadvertently led to a resurgence in interest in the spa waters of the town, the end of the Second World War brought a new prosperity to Baden Baden. In April of 1950, after six years of silence, the whirl of the roulette wheels sounded again under private interests and a second 'Belle Epoque' was born.

Starched collars, tuxedos, and ball gowns graced the walkways of Baden Baden once more as Society rediscovered the pleasures of relaxation after major conflicts and a Depression that had all but wiped out a generation of savings and investments. (It had been the need to raise revenue for the town after the economics of the thirties which played a large part in influencing the reopening of the casino. Even today more than 85% of casino earning are paid back to the town as taxes!)

Everyone from Marlene Dietrich to the Aga Khan came to stay and play. And the race track Edouard Benazet had bought in 1858 as part of the casino enterprise, become the focus of international attention with the twice yearly horse races drawing huge crowds. From this point there was no looking back, the vision of Emperor Caracalla and the work of the people of Baden Baden, Jacques Benazet in particular, had found renewed favour with a wider array of people than ever before. By 1968 a convention centre had been built in close proximity to the spa, casino, and hotel, and there was talk of building another thermal bath; this one in honour of the man who two thousand years before had ordered the very first one to be built.

The Caracalla Therme which opened in 1985 is perhaps the most modern of any thermal spa in the world, the result of years of research in the field of balneology: the study of bathing and medicinal springs. With its azure coloured facette dome and blue and white marble floodlit decor, the bath house is a synthesis of tradition and progress. Lying in its pure thermal waters one can look out through the all-glass exterior into blossoming irises, rhododendrons and roses of the surrounding gardens and where a romantic grott, hot whirlpools and two circular pools with their mushroom-shaped fountains beckon. There is even a sunny terrace from which one can look down onto the old town, - Altstadt, and ponder the glorious past of this most unique of places.

"Of course", grins Mr Saur reflecting on the success of this latest addition to the Spa Park, "after you've had your thermal treatment there is always the lure of tennis or golf. And in winter there is snow skiiing. We can provide everything here that someone might need, even a weeding service and ceremony. Recently we had an eightieth birthday part for Ms Ann Burda where she rented out all the function rooms and she invited seven hundred guests from all over the world, including Mr Gorbachev whom unfortunately couldn't make it.

"For a group of travel industry people, we even transformed the spa into an old Roman bath house and had everyone dressed up in to gas as we served fruit by the pool. And two years ago we had the big presentation for the five series BMW. Our racetrack is famous of course, and it raises more money than any other in Germany, thirty million marks as opposed to the others at around ten million a year. And we only have two meetings, one in May and the other in August."

The Baden Baden mineral spas in West Germany are renowned for their healing qualities. With trained doctors and staff on hand to supervise activities and treat all manner of ailments one can be rejuvenated in an atmosphere of complete relaxation. There are even water and floor gymnastics, hydrotherapeutic treatments and packs, saunas, solariums and unique to Baden Baden, an Inhalatorium for easing throat and chest complications.

And of course there is the casino. Today as always, man does not live by relaxation alone. Even the ancient Romans were known to be found of a wager now and then.

"One gentleman from South Africa recently won three and a half million marks in a period of just two days," says Mr. Bush, Manager of the Casino Baden Baden, of the casinos biggest payout to date. "He cashed half his winnings here at the casino and we gave him a cheque for the balance. When he presented it to the bank teller she was duly surprised and called the Manager, who in turn called us to confirm the win".

Not everyone of course leaves the casino as elated as that particular winner. Some are so despondent at losing that they return to take out their frustrations on the building itself.

"There was one man who decided to drive his car through the entrance and into the roulette tables at three o'clock in the morning". remembers Mr. Bush, "That was humorous."

The history of the Baden Baden casino is reflected in the ancestry of the current owner, the nephew of the World War I flying ace The Red Baron, and in fact that it continues to be a totally privately run enterprise, rare in today's climate of corporate run ventures.

Part of the attraction of casinos according to Mr Bush, lies in the social environments they create. "People like to be seen here, to enjoy the atmosphere, and to dress up and be a part of the lifestyle. The difference between European casinos and American casinos is probably one of culture. Our casinos are modelled on the Parisian ones. The Baden Baden casino is the oldest casino in the world, and that really is something special. What we try to have in Baden Baden is quality, that's why it is a very elegant place, and every year our patronage increases. Every day of the week between one thousand two hundred and one thousand three hundred people come here. On weekends over three thousand and over four thousand on special occasions."

With thirty-five gambling tables twenty-two of which are roulette, the casino is a highlight of many people's stay at Baden Baden. The specialty of the house of Baccarat, a special game set up for the 'high-rollers' who must place minimum wagers of 1,000 marks.

"People come to casinos because they want to win," continues Mr. Bush. "Roulette, both the classical and the French are very popular here, but did you know that roulette originally came from China and was brought to Europe by the monks? The German gamblers favour the French roulette while the American's favour is Blackjack and the American roulette wheel, or our Poker tables - the first on the Continent.

"The greater proportion of our customers come from Europe, although the card players tend to come from the Near East or the Mediterranean. But we also get Japanese gamblers, and more recently frequently visitors from the Middle East, particularly Dubai and Kuwait. The really big spenders are from the Near East through, Iran and Saudi Arabia especially".

Like all great casinos of the world the Casino Baden Baden is opulently furnished to reflect the elegance and charm so often associated with good living. There is nothing left wanting; from the wine-red carpeting to the imposing copper ceiling, everything is tastefully co-ordinated to enhance the inviting spirit of Baden Baden itself.

With a population of approximately 50,000, Baden Baden has the distinction of enjoying early springs and long and sunny autumns, perfect weather for indulging in the many attractions of this still remarkably tranquil town. Made famous by its reputation as a health resort, Baden Baden has an equally justified reputation for its first class casino, its international hotel, the magnificent scenery of the Oor River valley and the majestic mystery of the Black Forest through which the Emperor Caracalla first led his battle-weary troops at the height of the Roman conquest of Europe.