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D'Oyly, Ritz
and Escoffier... what more needs to be said?
When a maharajah
staying at The Savoy in London wanted a very important parcel delivered
to India he arranged for one of the page boys to fly there and back
at his expense. No-one, least of all the management at The Savoy
blinked an eye-lid. After all, this was the hotel which at the time
of its opening in 1889 boasted the only electric lights and the
first 24 hour room service of any hotel in the world. Where other
five-star hotels had prided themselves on providing the then staggering
number of five fully appointed bathrooms for their guests, The Savoy
had sixty-seven.
Even before
the brilliant impressario Richard D'Oyly Carte built his hotel,
the very site on which The Savoy stands was an address of note.
During the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 for instance, the King of
France was imprisoned there in the then Palace of Savoy, built earlier
that century by Count Peter of Savoy after he was leased the land
by his sister's husband. King Henry III. For the sum of three barbed
arrows a year, Count Peter had for his personal use some of the
most valuable land in London between the city and the West End,
on one of the most scenic bends of the River Thames.
The first building
in London to be made entirely of concrete and steel. The Savoy was
built on a site rich in the very fabric of London, and British life.
Not surprising then that it should have been conceived and brought
to fruition by the man responsible for bringing Gilbert and Sullivan,
undoubtedly England's most widely acclaimed composers to world prominence.
It was in the Savoy Chapel too that Geoffrey Chaucer, the great
English literary figure had chosen to marry.
It was as though
providence had intended to endow this site with all the necessary
attributes from history to make it stand head and shoulders above
the rest. Just the sort of site a man of Richard D'Oyly Carte's
visionary predisposition could develop into something truly remarkable.
When William
Gilbert and Arthur Sullivan were nothing more than penniless musicians
trying to eke out a living, Richard D'Oyly Carte had already appreciated
their potential and putting his money where his faith was, financed
a season of their earliest operas. A few short years later D'Oyly
Carte had made sufficient money from the wildly successful Gilbert
and Sullivan partnership that he sought out a site for his own theatre.
And so it was that after considerable efforts to find a suitable
location D'Oyly Carte happened upon he ruins of the Palace of Savoy.
It was here
that in 1861 D'Oyly Carte's theatre opened with the boardings promoting
it as the home of Gilbert and Sullivan, and boasting that it was
the only theatre in the world with electric lighting. So successful
was the promotion, and in such demand were seats for the Gilbert
and Sullivan operas that tickets sold out weeks in advance. London
hotels did a roaring trade keeping up with demand for rooms from
patrons from all over England and Europe.
Not surprisingly,
Richard D'Oyly decided that here then was another market to tap,
and in early 1884 construction began on the hotel that was to change
forever the manner in which hotels were run. The Savoy was to be
the single most adventurous development of D'Oyly Carte's colourful
and prosperous career.
A hundred years
after its official opening in August of 1989 The Savoy of London
remains the benchmark against which aspiring great hotels of the
world are consistently measured. With its breathtaking panoramic
views of London, its proximity to the banking and commercial heart
of England and its unfaltering attention to every detail to do with
the comfort and care of its patrons, The Savoy remains the epitome
of gracious hospitality with a considerable dosage of English refinement.
"Although
the Savoy group represents many hotels throughout London and England,
The Savoy of London remains the flagship of the group", says
Director and General manager of the Hotel Herbert Striessnig. "The
strength of the group really relies in the fact that no two of our
properties are alike. Each has its own personality and identity.
Uniformity is not something which the group strives for, rather
we prefer to let each establishment reflect its own particular flavour
and style. When people come to The Savoy - whether to stay in one
of our rooms, or dine at one of our restaurants they come here knowing
that we are totally different to The Berkley, The Connaught or even
Claridge's to name but a few of the Savoy group's interests in and
around London".
This dedication
to maintaining a sense of individuality and uniqueness between the
Savoy group's hotels and restaurants, perhaps best reflects the
very nature of the thinking behind Richard D'Oyly Carte's insistence
that his hotel should stand out from any other; not only in London,
but the rest of the civilised world.
D'Oyly Carte's
theatrical inclination was perhaps nowhere more evident than in
pomp and ceremony that surrounded the construction of his hotel.
Begun in 18884 The Savoy took four years to complete because of
the sheer magnitude of its design. Besides the uniqueness of the
materials used in its skeleton, D'Oyly Carte specified that the
Thomas Collcutt designed edifice have soundproof rooms, that the
pipes carrying water to the bathrooms be capable of filling even
the largest bath within a few short minutes, and that 'speaking
tubes' be placed in every room to allow patrons to communicate directly
with the hotel's service staff.
"We still
have call buttons", says Mr. Striessnig proudly. This service
links the guest directly to the very person who will look after
whatever need night arise. If a guest wants to order from our 24
hour Room Service, the person in charge of their room will be able
to advise them not only as to what is available, but perhaps more
importantly, what each dish consists of and what might prove the
most suitable to the guest at the time. In fact, we still make a
point of being available to the guest should they need someone to
help them button up a shirt or knot a tie".
"It is
The Savoy's regard for the absolute comfort of the guest which really
stands out in people's minds", Mr. Striessnig continues. "part
of that service and attention to detail mans that we have people
on staff who do nothing more than carve the roasts. But they do
so with such flair and elegance that it makes all the difference
in the world to those who dine with us. Our regular guests, people
like noted author and politician Jeffrey Archer can simply walk
in and ask for their usual and it is served without fuss. That is
the calibre of the service The Savoy has always been noted for".
One story has
it that a leading British businessman who had been dining at the
famed Savoy Grill everyday for twenty years with utmost satisfaction,
suddenly complained when his regular waiter was not there to attend
to him. As it transpired the said waiter was on holidays, but from
that time on The Savoy made a point of sending that particular waiter
on holiday only when the loyal patron was on his annual holidays.
Eccentric? Perhaps; but there again The Savoy has always had a reputation
for putting the guest above all other considerations. This attitude
doubtless stems from D'Oyly Carte's own maxim that excellence and
attention to every detail was all The Savoy would ever offer.
The maxim was
to be D'Oyly Carte's guiding philosophy, and right from the outset
he put it into practice. Not satisfied with the hotelier he had
initially employed to run The Savoy, D'Oyly Carte set about acquiring
the services of a man recognised the world over as the world's premier
hotelier, Swiss born Cesar Ritz. Applauded for his geniality, ability
to meet a guest's every request with a minimum of fuss and an uncanny
sense of showmanship, Ritz was a man not easily impressed by the
latest gimmicks. Knowing this D'Oyly Carte did not offer Ritz the
position at The Savoy outright but invited him to be a personal
guest at the hotel's opening. So impressed was Ritz by what he saw,
and the potential inherent in D'Oyly Carte's uncompromising attitude
to excellence that he accepted the position immediately. More than
this Ritz then returned to Monte Carlo and convinced the then leading
chef in the world, Auguste Escoffier to join him. Together, Ritz,
Escoffier and D'Oyly Carte made a formidable team.
It was Escoffier
who introduced the concept of a la carte dining to London society
and Escoffier too who together with Ritz made dining out fashionable.
Ritz's ability to pamper and spoil without patronising had made
him a legend throughout Europe, and his move to London heralded
a wave of interest in The Savoy for people travelling there from
the Continent. By shrewdly placing Reserved cards at the best tables
in the hotel's restaurant Ritz was able to manufacture the environment
that best enhanced the reputation of the hotel. His knack of putting
high-profile people where they were certain to be seen created a
demand for tables at the hotel, and a flow-on demand for accommodation
at the hotel that even D'Oyly Carte had not foreseen.
Such was Ritz's
influence with the right people that he managed to get the laws
changed so that The Savoy could stay open until after midnight and
on Sundays too. This move had the anticipated result; The Savoy,
and in particular the Savoy Grill became the meeting place in London
for after-theatre drinks and supper. The hotel's proximity to the
London theatre district, and the hours of its opening made the Soy
Grill a meeting place for actors, writers and directors. Over the
years people like Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham made the Grill
and the hotel their second homes, bringing to the establishment
the kind of reputation no amount of publicity could buy. Suddenly
the passeggio became fashionable in London, and when the Duchess
de Clermont-Tonnere chose The Savoy as the place where she would
became the first woman to smoke in public, no-one was the least
surprised.
Always on the
look-out for ways in which to improve the standard of service offered,
Cesar Ritz brought together a band of musicians - The Savoy Orpheans,
to provide music to dine by. In this way was the social event of
dinner and dancing introduced to a once rather staid London social
set. The Savoy Orpheans in fact went on to become the first hotel
band to play on radio, and in the twenties had a weekly European
audience in excess of 122 million listeners on the BBC's predecessor
Radio 2LO. Johann Strauss too, the master of the waltz was invited
to add his particular touch to proceedings and his appearance always
guaranteed a full house.
While guests were certainly impressed with the fact that the hotel
had its own artesian bore from which pure water was pumped up to
the rooms continually - thus eliminating the potential of water
shortage as happened regularly in most other hotels, they were staggered
by such deft touches as the 'Ascending rooms'. Not mere lifts, but
enormous rooms panelled in Japanese red lacquer they moved guests
from floor to floor in sumptuous comfort and served a dual purpose
for The Savoy. Besides hotel one of the most modern in the world,
these giant lifts allowed D'Oyly Carte to charge as much for a room
on the seventh floor as he would for one on the ground floor since
there was no need for guests to climb stairs. In the past, hotels
had been obliged to lower the tariff of rooms in relation to the
number of flights of stairs a guest had to climb.
"Today
as in the past every day brings something new to the hotel",
reflects Mr. Striessnig. "No two days are alike here and that
is perhaps one of the features that makes working here so fascinating.
We have people from all walks of life here, either staying in one
of our rooms or dining at The Savoy Grill or Upstairs. Her Royal
Highness Queen Elizabeth II has been here twice recently, as has
the Queen Mother, for instance, and this means we have to be very
conscious of every detail, from the food and service, to the security.
We have an enormous responsibility to be at our absolute best 24
hours a day, 365 days a year.
"Someone
once asked me which was the best hotel in the world, and my answer
is the same now as it was then; the best hotel in the world is that
at which you are best known. For a guest, there can be nothing more
endearing than to be addressed by name, and have the staff recall
such seemingly trivial things as your favourite table, your preferred
wines, or the floor on which you prefer to have your room",
adds Mr. Striessnig.
Noel Coward
was so particular about the arrangement of his toiletries for instance,
that the hotel kept a photograph of their exact arrangement so that
they could repeat it precisely on each visit. Another guest would
not stay in a room unless the windows were blacked out and the furniture
arranged to her particular and detailed floorplan. And Guglielmo
Marconi could find no better place than one of the hotel's soundproof
rooms to conduct his experimental wireless transmissions to the
United States. Even the young Guccio Gucci is said to have been
inspired to return to his native Italy and produce luxurious leathergoods
for the sort of clientele he saw about him everyday.
From its earliest
days The Savoy has prided itself on keeping abreast of the guests'
every desire. One of the most telling remarks about the opulence
of the hotel comes from a man noted for his own opulence and sense
of the theatrical, Oscar Wilde when he said that The Savoy was 'too
extravagant' for his tastes! His sentiments, whilst perhaps typical
of many who saw the hotel as extreme in its pursuit of the accolade
of the world's finest hotel, did nothing to deter the influential
and well-heeled to flocking to London's most noted address after
Buckingham Palace.
Not even the
sudden resignations of Cesar Ritz and Auguste Escoffier in 1897
could deter Richard D'Oyly Carte from his ambition to make The Savoy
the place to be when in London. Knowing that Ritz's shoes would
not be easy to fill D'Oyly Carte went looking for someone who would
not merely take over Ritz's position but would develop it further.
He found such a man in George Reeves-Smith at the Berkley, a leading
London restaurant. When he could not entice Reeves-Smith from The
Berkley D'Oyly Carte did the only other thing possible; he bought
the Berkley thus beginning an acquisition programme that today encompasses
some of London's most noted establishments, including the Connaught,
St. Quentin, Claridge's, Simpson-on-the-Strand and Wilton's.
Not only did
Reeves-Smith prove a most suitable replacement for Ritz, but he
went on to become the first ever hotelier to be knighted for his
services. A master wine connoisseur Reeves-Smith improved upon Escoffier's
innovation that all restaurant staff wear white aprons over morning
suits when waiting on guests by insisting that waiters be knowledgeable
on all aspects of food and wine. It was not enough for instance
that a waiter know that Escoffier had invented Peach Melba in honour
of the great Australian opera star, but they ought to know the details
of its creation for the benefit of guests as well.
Like Ritz before
him Reeves-Smith left nothing to chance, and when he was joined
by Frenchman Francois Latry - who took Escoffier's place, he made
a point of working very closely with the master chef. Together these
two men continued Escoffier's tradition for having individual chefs
prepare different aspects of the one meal and then having the Executive
Chef inspect each plate before it was presented to the guest. Along
with D'Oyly Carte, Reeves-Smith and Latry consolidated The Savoy's
reputation for excellence by continuing to set and then meet exacting
levels of service. One important feature which is continued to this
very day is the introduction of mattresses made to the hotel's own
specifications at its factory in Covent Garden. These mattresses
have proved so successful with guests that many continue to order
them for their own private use.
Along with mattresses
came linen made in Ireland, again to the hotel's specifications,
as well as chairs, tables, pillows and soft furnishings. If Oscar
Wilde had not thought such things extravagant, it may have been
the hotel's insistence on roasting its own coffee that convinced
him otherwise. So successful is the hotel's coffee in fact that
today it is sold under Royal warrant to Buckingham Palace.
On Richard D'Oyly
Carte's death in 1901 it was his son Rupert who took over. Not as
much a thespian as his father, Rupert was nonetheless every bit
as much an entrepreneur. Under his stewardship The Savoy put on
some of the most dazzling events ever seen in London before or since.
Because guests had commented that it was sometimes difficult to
see the performance on stage in the ballroom, Rupert had a hydraulic
lift system put in under the stage which allowed it to be raised
from the basement. On the occasion of a South African businessman's
birthday Rupert had the fore-court of the hotel flooded and decorated
to look like Venice, and engaged the services of the great tenor
Caruso as a singing gondolier. George Gershwin introduced the world
to Rhapsody in Blue at The Savoy, while Pavlova displayed her legendary
talents in the main ballroom before an appreciative and select audience.
Not even the
coming of two World Wars could slow down the pace at The Savoy.
When a bomb fell in the nearby Strand and knocked out The Savoy
Orpheans' leader, Noel Coward stepped in and took his place. In
one corner of an air-raid shelter deep in the bowels of the building
the Duke and Duchess of Kent were accommodated in a miniature Royal
Suite complete with gold and white furnishings. Shelter-maids were
issued with feathers with which to tickle the feet of snorers and
so soothe them back to sleep before they could wake other guests.
When war rationing made the buying of meat almost impossible The
Savoy bought a chicken farm.
The high profile
of The Savoy became increasingly obvious during World War Two when,
as a meeting place for members of Churchill's government, the hotel
was put on the Luftwaffe's top ten targets list. Churchill himself
made a point of dining regularly at The Savoy and in 1911 founded
a club with the rather ambiguous name The Other Club. This club,
consisting of some of Britain's most influential men is reputed
to have met at The Savoy throughout Churchill's time as British
Prime Minister as a kind of Parliament away from Parliament. The
Communications Room set up in the hotel during this remarkable period
still boasts the six brass clocks that Churchill had on hand to
tell him the time at a glance in Paris, Frankfurt, New York, San
Francisco, Tokyo and Sydney.
Having survived
both World Wars and the Depression, The Savoy's influence on English
culinary habits - always significant under Escoffier, became even
more of a focal point of interest. Nothing was too much trouble
for the staff; even a request to serve a meal backwards, starting
with after-dinner drinks and ending with appetisers hardly raised
an eyebrow. Following Escoffier's lead Latry made inroads into providing
fresh and new cuisine ideas for the guests. In the world-famous
American Bar a must meeting place for foreign correspondents during
the Second World War, Harry Craddock virtually invented the cocktail.
His book of cocktail recipes - the first of its kind in the world,
set the trend for other barmen and hotels to follow, and added weight
to the theory that The Savoy had lost none of the innovative flair
of either its founder or his son - who died in 1948.
Such was the
concern with service that The Savoy became the first hotel in the
world to start its own school to train hoteliers. This innovation
allowed the hotel to pick and choose its staff with a reckoning
that ensured only those totally dedicated to the traditions of the
hotel ever wore the distinctively formal Savoy uniform of black
and white.
"We jealously
guard everything we do here", points out Mr. Striessnig".
"Our staff have to meet certain very particular requirements
in terms of their attitude and commitment to what The Savoy is all
about and that this service for some people it is enough to simply
go in and run an hotel on the basis of what they have done elsewhere,
but The Savoy is an institution here in England and what we do here
is a consequence of the very history of which we are such an integral
part. We don't believe in taking ourselves so seriously that we
are not open to change however, quite the contrary. One of the reasons
The Savoy continues to enjoy such high regard is that we keep up
with the changing needs of our guests.
"Everything
has a lifespan", he adds. "An hotel is no different. From
the very beginning it has been a part of the hotel's philosophy
that improvements be made as they become necessary. The rooms for
instance are redecorated regularly; not just because of wear and
tear, but also because as an hotel The Savoy needs to keep pace
with the changing requirements of the times".
Where once guests
arrived at the hotel in horse-drawn carriages to be greeted by the
towering statue of Count Peter standing in regal pose on the roof
with shield and lance in hand, today a fleet of limousines flows
in and out of London's busy traffic bringing guests directly from
Heathrow Airport. Count Peter still watches over the comings and
goings, and there is the very real sense that the many ghosts of
the past still promenade under his gaze, the passage of time has
brought a broader cross-section of society to the hotel.
"Luciano
Pavarotti always stays here when he comes to London", says
the hotel's Maitre Chef de Cuisine Anton Edelmann. "And when
he does come he brings his own rice and spaghetti from Italy, as
well as his own recipes for the sauces he prefers. In fact he even
has his own favourite waiter and chef for whom he asks whenever
he stays here. "other well-known guests have included Frank
Sinatra who likes to book out anything up to fifteen rooms at a
time, and Aldo Gucci who once had hotel management convert one room
into a Tuscan grove for a dinner party he was throwing.
"Our cuisines",
Mr. Edelmann continues, "is very Europeanised. It has to be
in order to cater for the different tastes of our guests. Of course
we serve the traditional roasts for which the English are famous
- The Savoy Grill and Simpson-in-the-Strand being particularly famous
for the quality of their beef and lamb. The fact that The Savoy
has always enjoyed the patronage of people who enjoy good food and
wine has meant that only the very best is ever served here, or at
any of the Savoy Group's other establishments for that matter. Wilton's
for instance is matchless when it comes to seafood and game, while
St. Quentin is about as close as one can get to a genuine Parisian
brasserie without actually going to Paris".
"It is
my personal opinion that one eats better in London than anywhere
else in Europe, says Mr. Striessnig. "I once found myself struggling
for a way to describe the cuisine that Anton prepares. The most
accurate description was that it is Modern Traditional. We don't
do either nouvelle cuisine or Classical French here; what we do
however is allow the chefs to show off their culinary flair. In
this way our cuisines remains fresh, innovative and always exciting.
This is important when one considers that some of our diners come
here everyday without fail. While many of these clients have their
regular dishes, there are times when they too want something new
and interesting. At The Savoy it doesn't matter where you eat, from
he Savoy Grill to Upstairs, there is never a compromise of either
quality or attention to detail.
Doubtless Richard
D'Oyly Carte would have been happy to hear such words, especially
given his propensity for demanding continued and constant evolution.
It is a Savoy tradesmark that nothing is ever beyond improvement.
Even the aptly named laundry service Unblemish, is constantly upgraded
and improved upon so that guests can be assured of never losing
a sock, never getting a shirt back without it being impeccably pressed,
or having shoes polished to the point where reflections are picture-perfect.
Picture-perfect
too perhaps best describes the sweeping views of London from the
hotel. The towering majesty of Big Ben, the sombre facade of the
Houses of Parliament, St. Paul's Cathedral and the once dreaded
spires of the Tower of London. One can imagine Eisenhower teeing
off from the roof of the hotel onto a strategically positioned barge
on the Thames, and watching as the ball soared high over the city
skyline. Or Charlie Chaplin and Alfred Hitchcock standing in the
midst of a London cold snap framed against the same scene.
One is reminded
of that old saying. "If only walls could speak, there would
be as many stories as there would have been characters and events.
The panelled halls would echo with an equal measure of laughter
and tears, and history would be written in every room. Here is where
Elton John flooded two floors when he let his bath overflow whilst
he was on the phone; that is where Egypt's Fahmy Bey was found dying
after being shot by his disgruntled wife; there is the spot where
Maria Callas gave a rousing rendition of La Boheme for the hotel
staff in gratitude for their attention to her ever need.
One hundred
years on and The Savoy remains the kind of place Richard D'Oyly
Carte envisioned it would be; attentive without being familiar,
elegant without being stuffy, and graceful without being dated.
Staying at The Savoy is unlike staying anywhere else in London because
for all intents and purposes staying at The Savoy is to become for
a brief while, an event in historical time.
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