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In
a rare interview, one of the last remaining masters of haute couture,
Hubert De Givenchy, discusses the passage of fashion time with Vive
La Vie.
The starched white coat, silver hair and
imposing stature portend an exacting verisimilitude of the well-heeled
specialist. And that he is - a practitioner of the most particular
kind addressing the mind and dressing the body with a most gifted
master. In the pantheon of enduring fashion gods, Hubert de Givenchy
is perhaps the most reclusive, the most elusive and, the most beloved.
His
own remarkable stylistic legacy aside, on his way to becoming 'Givenchy',
Hubert experienced firsthand a remarkable epoch in fashion, and
social history. The names that litter his inventory of reference
are legend and he fascinates with the candour of one who was there.
Apprenticed to Fath, Piguet, Lelong, Schiaparelli; repeatedly pursued
by Dior to aid in the fruition of the New Look, and ear for Chanel
when she felt her reputation being overshadowed by a new breed of
designing youth...the list is manifold and very important, and Hubert
de Givenchy knows and understands the characters, the genius and
the personalities that today, constitute couture folklore. But the
most influential of all was Balenciaga, the great Spanish master
who is as formative in Hubert's design sensibility today as he was
for the small boy in provincial Beauvais and the incipient young
innovator who renewed the art of simplicity in fashion.
Asked
why he wanted to be a great designer, Givenchy is pleased and begins
to warm to his subject. "That is a nice question to ask me..."
he says reflectively almost to himself. "I think that for this
kind of thing, you are born...the same if you want to be a great
chef, dancer, actor, you are born to do that special thing. As a
young boy, my mother was a wonderful influence - she loved fashion.
She would select dresses with great taste and style. I discovered
more and more throughout the years of my education that I was attracted
to fashion and I decided to come to Paris with my sights set on
studying with Balenciaga. I was seventeen and naturally, M. Balenciaga
did not rush to see me. It was a huge disappointment for me.
 
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