Outside the taxi it's a cold, frantic, New York evening. I am headed for the Petrossian Delicacies Shop and Restaurant in the landmark Alwyn Court building on 58th Street. I have heard of the Petrossian style - their store on the Boulevard de Latour Mauborg has remained a Mecca for connoisseurs since the '20s. From all reports I will soon be stepping into a world of luxury where they serve the most glamorous, exquisite, sensual food on earth; as well as the finest and most expensive delicacies available.

Just around the corner from Carnegie Hall, the doorman waits to lead the way. Once inside, the Petrossians' reputation for playful extravagance is stunningly confirmed. The restaurant is a showplace, a flight of fantasy - floors of polished pink and grey granite, burled walnut (you'll find the same in a Rolls Royce), gold-capped columns, bronze sculptures on the window sills, a magnificent crystal chandelier and a grey leather banquette lined with mink. The Petrossians had French-Rumanian architect, Ion Oroveanu, design the restaurant, under instructions to create "the most elegant, frivolous, unique place in the world". It appears they found the ideal man for the job.

I am greeted by the Maitre d', and escorted through the entrance-boutique where glass cases display foie gras, smoked salmon, caviare (of course - and you may taste before buying), truffles, mousselines, vinegars, condiments and spices. Whilst seated comfortably at the bar, sipping a glass of champagne, I take the time to admire the etched mirrored panels inspired by the late Erte. It wasn't until Erte visited the restaurant for his 92nd birthday that he saw the completed work. Standing before the bar, he turned to Christian Petrossian and exclaimed "This is me!".